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Quick tip for those who have fitted aftermarket LEDs to their Eos

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20K views 41 replies 7 participants last post by  aku-aku  
I have some questions as I am a bit confused. What brand of light is the one that is blinking . I would hope that it is not the same as the fog light because they are different series. You may have been getting a bulb out indication because the LED bulb wasn't drawing enough current to be sensed. Did they blink when used as fog lights? I think the sensing circuits are looking for 3.5 Amps of draw or more. I haven't seen what the sensing pulse looks like If it has a positive and negative component, that may be why the regular bulb gives no error because it has no polarity issues. The LED may cause an error because it is a polarity driven device. It will only let one phase of the pulse through but not the other. The only way to solve the problems may be to disable the circuits using VCDS or similar as was mentioned previously. For the current draw problem a resistor would probably work but as Vox magma has said you aren't getting any energy savings. You could also try an LED rated at 35 watts. I am using 50 watt (each) LEDs on my high beams. I get the blinking but not the bulb out. I don't know about coding, but is the cold diagnostics causing the blinking?
 
I replaced my parking light (The 2825 bulb inside the high beam housing) which doesn't blink as well as the dome lights above the rear view mirror with LEDs and no issues. What about a simple LC or Pi filter in series with the LED. This might strip the pulse out but not the DC to keep it running. It may not affect the current sensing function. Question is, it this feasible and what effect would it have on the system. Additionally you would need one of these filters for each light. I think changing the coding would be the best option if possible. No extra parts and likely little to no effects on the rest of the system. Also might be the best way to eliminate the bulb out error. None of this seems to affect Xenon replacements. Maybe it has to do with the ballast or because the xenon tube itself can't react as fast. Replacement Xenon kits will wire in directly where the old H7 bulb was with no errors. They do have a high in rush current when they are firing up. 35 Watt kits are around 7-8 amps and about 3-4 amps when running. Tungsten lamps have a higher current draw while running but I don't know if there is surge value. I know we are not talking about Xenons but I thought this info might be useful. One other thought. There was mention whether a dead LED would trigger the bulb out warning. I believe it would still occur unless the circuit used to detect the bulb were disabled or the bulb was by passed. A bulb that is dead (zero current draw) or pulling a current below the required amount will trigger the bulb out warning. At least That is what I am seeing in my experimenting. My logic may be flawed but these are the results I am seeing. The high and low bulbs are both H7 (at least they are in my 07).
 
The idea that the lights use a PWM signal has a lot of merit. When I first installed my Xenons I wired them in with a separate wiring harness to prevent any damage from the in rush currents and feeds the ballasts pure dc from the battery. This harness has a relay. The first time I turned on the headlights that relay sang like a bunch of mad bees. Some capacitors were suggested. I tried them and the relay worked properly. I still have a spare. I will need to put the proper connectors on to connect them to my LED headlights. As is they are plug and play for the Xenon kit. When I get a little time and cooler weather I will hook them up to my LEDs to see if they work to stop the blinking. I can't answer the question about VW lighting setup between the Halogens my Eos has and the Xenons VW uses. My guess is the controllers may be different. I haven't seen the capacitors for the LEDs, but have seen a couple different adaptors. I thought those were for the CanBus.
 
Do you have any photos of the LED bulb and its fitment issue in the projector housing. I haven't had any fitment issue in the high beam housing with the LED bulbs, only the projector housing.