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FINALLY FOUND OUT ... finally findout my rattlle ( its sound was like metal on metal ) and it was because of the trunk door EXACT IN gas-filled straut spring ....
(( to know if it was your rattle or not just open the trunk door and try to lower it suddenly and you will hear rattle ))
 

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OK....

I now have photo of the culprit!!

This plastc rivet was slightly damaged and loose. This was causing the trim it holds to bang against the rear parcel shelf.. I have a new one on order from VW and that should then take care of the rattle!!!!

Simon,
Having just experienced the same amplified rattling noise (incidentally via the chrome strip and parcel shelf), I checked the plastic rivets holding the long plastic section underneath the back window unit; and found that the middle rivet (of three) was loose.

As a result, having taped up the rivet to test your solution, I'm pleased to confirm that this indeed was the source!

Knowing how much it would potentially cost to ask VW to identify and fix the fault, I was REALLY pleased to see this post.

So thank you, you've saved me a lot of time and possibly money.

Much appreciated.

Mark.
 

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I think I just found another source of rattle in the driver door:

I have the driver side door card and innards out to fix the window lifter.

There is a black plastic channel section which looks as though it should be glue bonded to the card as I can see lengths of glue strip or double sided tape dry with no stick. Mine was just flopping about loose when I lifted the door card upwards.

I'll post the fix later. Either re-glue with hot melt glue or a better solution.
 

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Door car rattle

Waiting for the pics vox!
Ok, I will have much more exciting things to post about my second window lifter repair in a new or edited thread.

Here is the photo of my driver side door card.

The big red arrow shows the black molding at the top is completely detached from the top underside of the door card and the long thin strips of glue they put on are doing nothing. Whilst I appreciate some annoying rattles can be fixed with a squirt of something, when you see this kind of thing, no amount of squirting will fix this door rattle.

I shall look into hot melt glue or double sided carpet tape for this fix.
 

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Ok, I will have much more exciting things to post about my second window lifter repair in a new or edited thread.

Here is the photo of my driver side door card.

The big red arrow shows the black molding at the top is completely detached from the top underside of the door card and the long thin strips of glue they put on are doing nothing. Whilst I appreciate some annoying rattles can be fixed with a squirt of something, when you see this kind of thing, no amount of squirting will fix this door rattle.

I shall look into hot melt glue or double sided carpet tape for this fix.
Now the door card is fixed!

I decided against re-gluing with hot melt glue as the glue run is quite long and I thought it might set before getting the parts together.

In the end I decided to use a thick bead of silicone bathroom sealer (or black silicone gasket would do), following the oem glue lines plus some. Silicone has the advantage it sticks well to smooth plastic surfaces like this and it is completely sound dead.

There are 5 holes in the plastic molding along the top edge which I was able to fill with silicone to form a mushroom head for additional bonding of the molding to the door card.

If you have mysterious rattles from around the top of the doors, check this one out. This is the second time (first was mirrors) that I have found VW's automated gluing of components totally inadequate and of poor quality. I hope they have not glued in the engine!
 

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Now the door card is fixed!

I decided against re-gluing with hot melt glue as the glue run is quite long and I thought it might set before getting the parts together.

In the end I decided to use a thick bead of silicone bathroom sealer (or black silicone gasket would do), following the oem glue lines plus some. Silicone has the advantage it sticks well to smooth plastic surfaces like this and it is completely sound dead.

There are 5 holes in the plastic molding along the top edge which I was able to fill with silicone to form a mushroom head for additional bonding of the molding to the door card.

If you have mysterious rattles from around the top of the doors, check this one out. This is the second time (first was mirrors) that I have found VW's automated gluing of components totally inadequate and of poor quality. I hope they have not glued in the engine!
Get a life, for crying out loud. Why would you think VW uses glue to mount their engines.:eek:

They use the finest Tape available to human kind.:D



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Vox did you notice any dirt inside the door?Every time I lower the front Windows, they come up with some "stripes"
the stripes are caused by build up of dirt on the top door blades. If the stripes are inside it is the inside blade, if outside then outside blade (most likely).

The rubber blades have a thin coat of 'flock' on their wiping edges which feels a little like felt but very thin.

Take the front windows down to their 'service position' which is when the glass disappears below the blades. Now you can run your fingers on the inside where the glass normally make contact. If the rubber flock is breaking up, then you have no choice but to replace the strips (expensive, come with chrome trim). You may just find leaves stuck to the rubber. Thoroughly clean along the wiping edges with alcohol, you will be surprised how much dirt and green stuff comes off.

When you have finished, raise the glass and with the door open, spray the outside of the glass with a watering can. If water is pouring out of the front or rear door drains at the bottom, then your seals are no good and letting water into the door cavity. It will not be long before you will be replacing the window regulator wire, and long term you risk corrosion along the door frame bottom edges.

The slot seal design is very poor and only makes contact on the outer 1mm of the seal along a very long length, which means it doesn't always seal. The design problem they have is increasing seal contact area using a different profile would increase friction on the window motor, which is already lifting a long and heavy piece of glass. As those slot seals age they lose some of their rubber flex which is the only thing keeping it in contact with the glass. Before I replaced both outside slot seals I tried out my new home steam cleaner (With the glass fully lowered!) by running it back and forth along the slot seals. It is surprising how floppy and springy they became afterwards. That gave a few months of relief from water pouring out of the door drains after rain.

Even with new slot seals and the inner door panels off, I could still see a couple of drip runs getting inside the door skin. If I took the glass down and gently pushed the outer seal lip inwards, the glass would seal - but that is never going to last.

There is something really wierd about how they mount the glass lifter mechanism. The bottow two fixing bolts are in slots, so you can move the bottom of the frame in and out a little. Unfortunately, the top 2 fixing bolts are in plain holes and you cannot move the top of the frame out to compensate for an old seal. Considering the glass is raised most of the time it is top adjustment you really need to push the glass harder on to edge of the slot seal. The inner slot seal is less important and is there to keep condensation out of the door skin and wipe the glass when you lower it.

My passenger door even with a new seal was still disappointing. As an experiment I managed to get a couple of flat washers behind the top bolts holding the lifting frame. That pushes the glass out about 1.5mm and the inner slot seal is still o.k. It seemed to stop the few drips I had, but I do not know for how long.

Water leaks into the door cavities must be one of the EOS's best kept secrets. It is difficult to spot, although a sudden rush of water from the door drains when you open a door after rain is a big clue. It is even quite tricky to actually see, because you need the inner door cover seal removed and the door card propped up with just the window motor connected.
 

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There have been issues with the large door seals letting water into the cabin footwells and there are VW TB fixes. This is different, because you are rarely aware of water running through your door skins.

I am in contact with a supplier of rubber seal profiles and studying some options at the moment. It would be impossible to replace the complete external slot seal, because it is quite a complicated molding. My idea is to try and find a flocked profile which could be bonded to the inside of the existing seal, to make the correct angle and give about 6mm of surface contact with the window glass.

This is all a bit tricky, because on the one hand you do not want to increase the motor load too much and if the contact pressure is too great, you risk getting permanent vertical abrasions in the window glasses.
 

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Hi, I'm never sure if all these cars work the same. But on mine if I press the window switch momentarily it goes down and leaves the glass in the slot seals about 1cm. If I press and hold down the switch the glass goes down past that position and stops below the slot seals, allowing you to inspect and clean them. That is called the window glass service position.

It is not the question you asked, but you should also look for the two engraving marks at the top of the glass. When you press the 'up' switch to close the glass, the edge of the seal should sit between those two marks. There are two adjuster holes covered by a black cap in the bottom of the door to set those correct. You have to take the glass down as low as you can (service position) then adjust a Torx screw on the front and rear lifter blocks to get the glass level and at the correct height when closed. You cannot seem to control how much the glass drops when you open a door.
 

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Your front windows should have 'One touch operation' working. This gets forgotton if the battery has been replaced. The reset procedure is in the owners manual.

On my front windows, I press the button down briefly and the glass motors to the lowest position but still in the slot seal. If I then briefly hit the down button again, the glass drops further into the service position and below the slot seals so you can clean them. Do you have single touch operation working? I use this a lot on the drivers side, because without it I would be holding my hand on the down button whilst driving! I thought this was a normal safety feature in most cars, particularly for the driver window.
 

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Yes I do, my button has 2 "clicks"; the first is a manual lowering, the second click fully open the window (it stops in line with the seal, I'll post a pic tomorrow).
If I press it one more time, nothing happens
 

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Can someone else reading this thread confirm how their window glass switches operate?

Can you get the glass to lower below the seal to their service position? I am now wondering if this is an option I may have enabled with vag-com that is not normally available. It should be, because keeping those wiping slot seals clean and free of green stuff is very important.
 
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