[Sly40]

Voxmagna. Mine work as you have described when initially lowered the fronts stop just proud of the seals, with another press they drop away below the seals.

 

[voxmagna]

Thanks, I think he must have something different or needs to do a windows reset. I was sure I first read about this 'service' position in the shop manual the first time I took the door apart and removed the door glass, but I can't find it now.

You certainly need it to clean the slot seals and get a shortish torx driver on to the lifters through the two holes in the bottom of the door.

Thanks - Vox

 

[MrT]

I should try a reset..if I'm not wrong you do that with the key..

 

[voxmagna]

You could be very wrong Mr T.

The sequence for the basic setting of an EOS window regulator is as follows:

1 Start the engine.
2 Open the door and close the latch in the door lock - you can do this with the door open using a screwdriver shaft pushed into the door latch.
3 Lower door window completely.
4 Close door window and block door window by hand. Door window lowers (checks child finger overload protection!).
5 Within 5 seconds, close the door window and block by hand again. Door window stops.
6 Within 5 seconds, close door window again. The door window moves without roll-back function to the mechanical limit stop of the window regulator.
7 Within 5 seconds, hold the window regulator switch for 5 seconds. The window regulator motor is now adjusted to the window regulator.
8 Open the latch of the door lock, the door window lowers to the short lift position.
9 Close door, the door window closes.

The following four positions for the door window, relative to the roof side top seal are possible:

10 Door window moves to between the two marks on the roof seal. The door window adjustment is now o.k.

11 The door window does not move to the upper mark. The door window height adjustment is not correct and must be adjusted upwards using a Torx driver in the door bottom adjuster holes with the glass taken down to the bottom. Bit hit & miss. Adjust a small amount, take window up, check marks, if wrong, lower glass and adjust some more.

12 Door window moves further down than the lower mark on the seal. The door window height adjustment is not correct and must be adjusted downwards by turning the Torx screw adjusters in the correct direction.


13 The door window moves into the seal and then lowers again because the glass topped out in the seal too far and there was resistance on the motor like a kiddy sticking its hand in. The door window height adjustment is not correct and must be adjusted downwards to get the edge of the seal midway between both pairs of marks on the window glass.

I think I found a couple of flaws in their procedure, but taking into account whether the door lock is open or closed, you are basically using the 5 second time window to motor the glass between the top and bottom extremes. The bottom extreme being the service position I think. The window controller then gives the roll back drop amount (can't be changed) and the lower pre-service stop position. The system is quite simple and really only relies on the motor being stalled at the top and bottom extremes where the top is between the marks on the glass.

Have fun and repeat on all the others.

It is also common on most cars to go through a similar reset procedure for the sun roof if a battery has been disconnected. Particularly if the operation button is setting the sun roof in odd positions or not fully closing.

 

[MrT]

Whoa!looks like hocus pocus
Thanks vox I have to study this procedure..I didn't understand the point 7..do you mean to hold up or down the window button?

 

[voxmagna]

I think I found a couple of flaws in their procedure

You would have to ask their German man who wrote the procedure about that.

Look, you just do what you can. I think holding the button down 5 seconds says 'remember this setting', otherwise settings would be changing every time you controlled the window. In normal operation, who would hold down the switch for 5 seconds?

Just think about what is going on and what the system is trying to do, then say a 'Hail Mary' or Abracadabra and see if what you have done has changed anything.

 

[Paulgooner67]

Here I am newby with a 2007 eos with a rear drivers side rattle that's driving me mad!!! Roof up sounds like trip slapping about. Roof down not a sound. Any updates suggestions before going forward? Don't fancy supporting the roof on axle stands to be honest!!

 

[voxmagna]

You will probably guess that rattles can be many things and I agree they can be very annoying. Wifey kept complaining about hers for 3 months. I kept dipping in and out of things and only solved them when I took over the car and she got something else.

Here's what I had wrong:

1. The handbrake cable bouncing up and down on the 'V' struts underneath. Check yours by feeling for chafing of the outer plastic cable jacket.

2. A broken front spring. Hard to imagine because the front wheel arch heights do not change. the bottom coil can break leaving the remains of the coil rattling around the bottom of the strut. Jack up the front and feel all the way around the coils top to bottom.

Have somebody sit in the back listening. Noises can appear to come from one place, but be somewhere else.

There are components inside the rear window cavities that might work loose. Tricky one that because you don't want to go there unless somebody in the back confirms that's where the rattle is coming from.

You can lower the roof sufficient for it to all hang horizontal about half open, then give the parts a 'gentle' shake. You might get lucky if a hinge part is loose.

Just because you don't hear the rattle roof down doesn't mean it's the roof. In my case the extra weight on the rear changed the suspension height and stopped the hand brake cable banging on the 'V' struts. I was misled first time because I had the hand brake on, cable was taught and I didn't hear anything when I bounced the corners of the car. With the wheels chocked and the handbrake off, I heard it!

I just modified a couple of short 50mm diameter tree stake poles with 20mm wide notches cut in one end to prop my roof. That isn't the VW axel stand method! My poles fit behind the large hinge lowish down and run back to the corners of the trunk liner tray. I think that makes more logical sense if you aren't dismantling the trunk liner. I just have to remember to manually push the roof forwards a little off the support poles, in case I have a mind blank and hit the roof switch in the wrong direction!

 

[Paulgooner67]

Thank you for the reply, I think I'm going to sit someone in the back first port of call. I have new springs so I hope there not cracked. The had brake cable maybe possible but like you said the rattles I think are behind me right maybe coming from somewhere else. As for the jacks I'm still nervous about it but I can see if I don't fix early it will have to be done. I'd like to invite anyone that has pictures of the said fix areas so I can look at these before I start.

 

[voxmagna]

By 'jack' I assume you are talking about the VW props for securing the roof in the part open position?

With the engine running you can leave the roof part open for about 8 minutes, after which time the roof pump will shut down and the roof will either fall back to fully open or forwards to closed - depends on the balance point when stopped.

Most of us have to do that for Krytoxing the seals. The props are essential though if you are working on or under the roof for long periods. They are an important safety tool that could stop your head getting chopped off. When the roof pump times out you get no warning, the roof just moves silently. -- and if you happen to have left some tools in the 'forbidden' trunk sides - CRUNCH.

 

[LuisT76]

Digging topic time!

I tried the shim removal procedure to stop this totally annoying rattle I have when the roof is up, from the rear right side, but it didn't work.

Looked for loose parts, plastices etc but couldn't find anything that apparently would cause this rattle.

It's clearly a plastic on plastic (or maybe plastic on metal) rattle and it doesn't take much of a rough rod to hear it.

Anyone has any ideas of what could be causing this? I read about the handbreak cable being possibly loose, but couldn't really understand how to check this, so if anyone has pictures I would really appreciate it!

Thankx in advance for all the help!

 

[voxmagna]

I read about the handbrak cable being possibly loose, but couldn't really understand how to check this

I already posted about it, the outer PVC jacket rubs and wears on the rear underbody 'A' frame. Once the outer jacket is chaffed through, the edges of the 'A' touch and bang on the inner spiral metal core of the cable. You can only visualise and check the cable when all 4 wheels are on the ground and the rear is loaded which lowers the chassis on to the cable. Reach underneath from each side and run your fingers along the outer PVC jacket feeling for rubbing and wear through. My fix is to replace the worn cable (search) then slit a length of heater hose, push it over and hold each end with a tywrap.

N.B This isn't the only cause of rattles, but the hardest to find and simplest to fix - well replacing the hand brake cables is a torment!

The other possibility may be a broken spring. They are hard to spot because it's usually the top or bottom turn that breaks and you won't see it unless you run your fingers around the coils from top to bottom. My street is good for test driving rattles because it has horrible road humps - which are often the cause of spring failure on modern cars.

Start with a full roof lube to eliminate sqeaks and rattles from roof seals. There are some other ideas in this thread. Get somebody listening through the ski hole with a tube in their ear to try and find the location. Roof up and down changes the weight distribution on the rear suspension considerably and there may be something there to look at? There's usually a distinct different between solid 'clunks' (more serious) and annoying metalic contact noises.

Roof parts and the hinges themselves sit on rubber buffers when the roof is down. There are also small buffers under the rear window frame. But I would suspect any loud dull thud sounds might come from the hinges if they are distorted because under the weight of roof parts, they should sit down evenly on the buffers - check sliding in a thin rule there is pressure on each buffer and no gaps, a buffer is missing or a roof ram hasn't collapsed evenly?

Another obscure possibility is rattles coming from the main and smaller hydraulic ram pivots. With the roof propped I've removed mine one at a time and there's quit a lot of tolerance for the pin in the holes. Normally when the roof is opened or closed there should be some residual hydraulic pressure or weight from the roof package to hold the pivot pins under pressure. When the package settles down on the trunk floor buffers, their height (Too low) could be holding the hinges slack or unsupported allowing the pins to rattle? Check both hinges are sat on their buffers with equal pressure first, then try adding a few mm of packing both sides to lift the height of the hinge buffer. That should force the package to increase downwards pressure on the ram hinge pins. If something isn't right and hinges are not settling down evenly on the buffers, there's something more serious to investigate further because it may be the consequence of a previous roof hinge 'crunch'.

 

[LuisT76]

I already posted about it, the outer PVC jacket rubs and wears on the rear underbody 'A' frame. Once the outer jacket is chaffed through, the edges of the 'A' touch and bang on the inner spiral metal core of the cable. You can only visualise and check the cable when all 4 wheels are on the ground and the rear is loaded which lowers the chassis on to the cable. Reach underneath from each side and run your fingers along the outer PVC jacket feeling for rubbing and wear through. My fix is to replace the worn cable (search) then slit a length of heater hose, push it over and hold each end with a tywrap.

N.B This isn't the only cause of rattles, but the hardest to find and simplest to fix - well replacing the hand brake cables is a torment!

The other possibility may be a broken spring. They are hard to spot because it's usually the top or bottom turn that breaks and you won't see it unless you run your fingers around the coils from top to bottom. My street is good for test driving rattles because it has horrible road humps - which are often the cause of spring failure on modern cars.

Start with a full roof lube to eliminate sqeaks and rattles from roof seals. There are some other ideas in this thread. Get somebody listening through the ski hole with a tube in their ear to try and find the location. Roof up and down changes the weight distribution on the rear suspension considerably and there may be something there to look at? There's usually a distinct different between solid 'clunks' (more serious) and metalic contact noises.

Roof parts and the hinges themselves sit on rubber buffers when the roof is down. There are also small buffers under the rear window frame. But I would suspect any loud dull thud sounds might come from the hinges if they are distorted because under the weight of roof parts, they should sit down evenly on the buffers - check sliding in a thin rule there is pressure on each buffer and no gaps, a buffer is missing or a roof ram hasn't collapsed evenly?

Thankx for your quick answer @voxmagna , the thing is that as a "non-english" native speaker I could only understand half of the explanation, hence the photos request... I understood that I need to load the rear so the suspension lowers, but have no clue of where to look or what to look for...
Is it behind the wheels?

 

[voxmagna]

O.K I understand, Look for the 'A' shaped body reinforcement underneath at the back. Then follow the cables from the front center to the corner of each rear wheel. Feel for damage or breaks in the black cable covering. Car in gear or wheels blocked, handbrake off, move the slack cable up and down and see if it makes a noise.

If you cannot understand this then you are unlikely to be able to replace a cable yourself?

 

[LuisT76]

O.K I understand, Look for the 'A' shaped body reinforcement underneath at the back. Then follow the cables from the front center to the corner of each rear wheel. Feel for damage or breaks in the black cable covering. Car in gear or wheels blocked, handbrake off, Move the slack cable up and down and see if it makes a noise.

Ok, I think I'm getting it now. One question, if the noise is caused because the slack in the cable, shouldnt it be gone if I pulled the handbrake just a little while riding? I tried this with no success...

 

[voxmagna]

Not conclusive because even when tight, the rear suspension is moving up and down. Use your fingers and eyes first! There are many probable causes for noises and you have to work through all. Most important are any issues with wheels or suspension which you should check or get somebody else to check first.

 

[LuisT76]

Not conclusive because even when tight, the rear suspension is moving up and down. Use your fingers and eyes first! There are many probable causes for noises and you have to work through all. Most important are any issues with wheels or suspension which you should check or get somebody else to check first.

Thankx! Will do!