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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good Morning Everyone

New user here, my dad bought a 2007 EOS early this year everything was great until the rear windows stopped working and the roof won't go back so would like some help please

We have purchased VCDS to help us out and we are getting the following error msgs in both the front door control modules and roof controller, i am a newbie with VCDS

Saying no signal/communication

We have tried the following things at a guess see if it would work

Fuses all ok
Checked wiring ok
Got two modules for rear windows plugged them in no joy
changed comfort control module no joy
changed roof module no joy
changed wiring loom in drivers door no joy

The windows don't work in the rear, the sun roof works ok and front windows work ok

any help would be appreciated as to what can we look at

Any help would be appreciated

22521
22522
 

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Next step would be to obtain a wiring diagram with the pinouts for the rear door modules. Then check for decent power and ground. Then scope the network wire(s)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
just the visual make sure no breaks, i did put a multi meter to the plug and was reading it had a constant live so i thought that was good enough, i wouldn't know what else to check as not that clued up on that side of things
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
checked that the rear window switches work and they are ok get a reading when pressed up or down, also the main window switch wont work well doesnt do anything above the 4 single window switches?
 

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The good thing is you started with the right approach, diagnostics tools and have done some good checks. Just to clarify, you mention front door modules but the rear window controllers are of a similar type and fitted inside the rear 1/4 sections just above the speakers. For others reading this, vcds reports rear window modules as 'rear door' when we know the EOS is 2 doors, it's just how the system regards them. They are horrendous to get at and you are brave if you actually went that far? The window switches or their wiring has nothing to do with no comms errors. The modules are either incompatible, electronically damaged, or have bad code stuck in their memory. At first key on, the car system checks and communicates with all modules to initialise them and stores the errors. So I've edited at this point to say I don't know if you are inside the front doors (with no reported faults) or have been inside the rear 1/4 sections above the speakers for modules J388 and J389??

The EOS uses window modules that look exactly the same as those in many other VAG cars but they have different software inside. The modules you tried MUST have the same correct V.W part codes as those you are replacing. If there is one letter different, then modules may not recognise EOS specific data communication. Most incompatible Golf module parts start 1K, whereas EOS specific are usually 1Q (corrected). Since I've had the same frustrating problem, been there done that and not just read it on YouTube, I might be able to help:

If you have the rear window motors removed from the rear 1/4 panels you can plug them in with both motors resting on something and rescan to check if you got them working. When the motor modules scan o.k with no comms faults you can put them back.

This is my take on your problem and there are a couple of ways to go:
It is unusual for two similar modules to go faulty at the same time. If the battery has been allowed to go flat or the car has been jump started, corrupted software code stored inside the module volatile memory stops them running normally. This code boots to initialize and establish communication with the rest of the car. I suspected for a while that stored voltage inside these modules of only a couple of volts is sufficient to hold bad data in memory. I suggest you first try plugging in the two original modules resting on something outside the compartments because they may now have self discharged? If vcds still doesn't communicate read on:

Turn off the ignition and keep the keys in your pocket.
Identify the two windows fuses and remove the rear window fuse. Disconnect BOTH battery leads and wrap some protective insulation tape around one terminal, then leave the car leads shorted together for at least 2 hours.

If your original modules have been left disconnected for a day or two with no power, any residual voltage inside them should have discharged, but before replacing them, take some wire and use it to short pins at random on each window motor connector NOT the harness end!

The EOS motors, integral controllers and their internal software are handed. You must replace them on the correct sides (Check the V.W part numbers if you are not sure).

After putting them back, replace the rear window fuse and remove the wire shorting the battery leads. Attach the battery positive lead to the battery clamp first, then very quickly avoiding arcs & sparks, re-attach the battery negative, then turn on the ignition. Ignore any dash warnings for steering or brakes, they clear after the car is first driven.

Rescan with vcds, clear all faults, re-scan and see if the rear window comms errors come back. If they don't, things are looking good. Try the rear window manual switches, if the motors run that's good. Turn off the ignition and replace both motors and glass if you removed it. Do another vcds scan before finally replacing the trim.

At this stage the windows up/down positions may be wrong - e.g they stop half way? Don't worry about it, that is sorted by doing an all windows and sunroof reset when everything is back.

The alternative fix for this problem is to take your car to a genuine EOS Stealer. They can use their special diagnostics kit to reflash firmware in the rear window modules. Although I don't believe the firmware itself is corrupt, this simple procedure (for them) starts by erasing the module memory of any bad code.

This is a nasty EOS problem which can occur when batteries are left to go flat, are replaced, chargers are connected whilst the car leads are still attached, or the car is jump started from a flat battery. ALL BAD THINGS TO DO. You cannot completely exclude both modules have been 'fried' and electronically damaged which my method won't fix.

Reply if you can get the modules recognised by vcds with no comms errors.
 

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Most incompatible Golf module parts start 1K, whereas EOS specific are usually 1F.
Eos-specific part numbers start with 1Q*. 1F is the model number. No idea why they're different given that part and model numbers align across most other models.

* odd fact: the only 1Q part I know of that's also used outside the Eos is the Dynaudio front speaker, which is reused in the Arteon.
 

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OK, I may have brain ***. The important thing is they shouldn't be 1K0 although there are some exceptions for non-electronic trim and 'generic' parts. 1K Golf part window controllers do NOT work for the EOS because they don't need EOS cabriolet remote control from the roof controller or use a different comms protocol? I tried one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
voxmagna i just want to say a massive thank you for your help, we disconnected the modules for 3 days pulled the fuses battery etc left it, plugged everything in cleared fault codes and the windows and roof work again! Thank you so much very much appreciated! I've got one happy Dad again! Crazy for that to happen by just d/c the battery charging it and putting it back it caused this problem! Thanks again. Wayne
 

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I explained what happens to electronics inside the window modules. Unfortunately, many garages don't know what happens and will charge up for an expensive module repair based on their diagnostic scan results.

I'm not sure how long a module has to be left to compleley discharge internally but 3 days is plenty and bullet proof. If I had to do it quicker and be sure in say half hour, I would just short out the module connector pins together for 10 minutes or so. In fact, I haven't tried it but if a module has exposed pins rather than female sockets, you could carefully insert a strip of ali cooking foil across the pins and leave it to rest for 1/2 hour.

It isn't really Voodo magic. The problem is V.W/Bosch at Al failed to include a discharge resistor in their module design after the series protection diode or voltage regulator feeding memory. It seems to be only the door modules that get this problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
yeah makes sense with what you explained, just a bad design if that happens every time the battery goes flat or needs charging etc. The modules was left in the car we couldn't get them out so access to shorting them out would of been impossible. But disconnection of them did the trick so saved broken glass and an expensive repair bill when wasn't needed. Bad design then!
 

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With a wiring diagram you can find the module wires somewhere else.
 

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checked that the rear window switches work and they are ok get a reading when pressed up or down, also the main window switch wont work well doesnt do anything above the 4 single window switches?
I’ve had battery problems long enough that I’ve gotten really good at doing a ”Capacitive Reset” to clear the bad codes that Voxmagma is talking about in his long explanation.
If your windows are still acting like the computer has lost its mind, you need to clear that memory completely.
If you have a 2.0 turbo, and your battery is under the hood, you need to disconnect the battery terminals and touch them together for. Of maybe 20 to 30 seconds to make sure that all memory within the car‘s computer has been Cleared.
If you have a VR6 like I do, and there are a pair of 6V batteries in the trunk, you need to uncover the batteries, remove all the battery terminals from the batteries and use your jumper cables to connect hem all in series to make one loopy circuit. Leave it like that for 20 to 30 seconds and the bad codes will be cleared.
If it was bad codes causing the problem, your windows should work after you hook the batteries back up.
 

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Good Morning Everyone

New user here, my dad bought a 2007 EOS early this year everything was great until the rear windows stopped working and the roof won't go back so would like some help please

We have purchased VCDS to help us out and we are getting the following error msgs in both the front door control modules and roof controller, i am a newbie with VCDS

Saying no signal/communication

We have tried the following things at a guess see if it would work

Fuses all ok
Checked wiring ok
Got two modules for rear windows plugged them in no joy
changed comfort control module no joy
changed roof module no joy
changed wiring loom in drivers door no joy

The windows don't work in the rear, the sun roof works ok and front windows work ok

any help would be appreciated as to what can we look at

Any help would be appreciated

View attachment 22521 View attachment 22522
Check the hydraulic motor in the trunk. Lift up the trunk floor cover and it should be attached to the rear of the trunk. It may be covered in foam rubber insulation and could be very wet. Remove the foam rubber and let the hydraulic motor dry out. This is what happened to mine....poor design. I just replaced the motor with a used one and my roof works fine....for now. I also drilled two holes in the floor of the trunk near the motor so that water could drain out and away from the motor. Good Luck!
 

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The good thing is you started with the right approach, diagnostics tools and have done some good checks. Just to clarify, you mention front door modules but the rear window controllers are of a similar type and fitted inside the rear 1/4 sections just above the speakers. For others reading this, vcds reports rear window modules as 'rear door' when we know the EOS is 2 doors, it's just how the system regards them. They are horrendous to get at and you are brave if you actually went that far? The window switches or their wiring has nothing to do with no comms errors. The modules are either incompatible, electronically damaged, or have bad code stuck in their memory. At first key on, the car system checks and communicates with all modules to initialise them and stores the errors. So I've edited at this point to say I don't know if you are inside the front doors (with no reported faults) or have been inside the rear 1/4 sections above the speakers for modules J388 and J389??

The EOS uses window modules that look exactly the same as those in many other VAG cars but they have different software inside. The modules you tried MUST have the same correct V.W part codes as those you are replacing. If there is one letter different, then modules may not recognise EOS specific data communication. Most incompatible Golf module parts start 1K, whereas EOS specific are usually 1Q (corrected). Since I've had the same frustrating problem, been there done that and not just read it on YouTube, I might be able to help:

If you have the rear window motors removed from the rear 1/4 panels you can plug them in with both motors resting on something and rescan to check if you got them working. When the motor modules scan o.k with no comms faults you can put them back.

This is my take on your problem and there are a couple of ways to go:
It is unusual for two similar modules to go faulty at the same time. If the battery has been allowed to go flat or the car has been jump started, corrupted software code stored inside the module volatile memory stops them running normally. This code boots to initialize and establish communication with the rest of the car. I suspected for a while that stored voltage inside these modules of only a couple of volts is sufficient to hold bad data in memory. I suggest you first try plugging in the two original modules resting on something outside the compartments because they may now have self discharged? If vcds still doesn't communicate read on:

Turn off the ignition and keep the keys in your pocket.
Identify the two windows fuses and remove the rear window fuse. Disconnect BOTH battery leads and wrap some protective insulation tape around one terminal, then leave the car leads shorted together for at least 2 hours.

If your original modules have been left disconnected for a day or two with no power, any residual voltage inside them should have discharged, but before replacing them, take some wire and use it to short pins at random on each window motor connector NOT the harness end!

The EOS motors, integral controllers and their internal software are handed. You must replace them on the correct sides (Check the V.W part numbers if you are not sure).

After putting them back, replace the rear window fuse and remove the wire shorting the battery leads. Attach the battery positive lead to the battery clamp first, then very quickly avoiding arcs & sparks, re-attach the battery negative, then turn on the ignition. Ignore any dash warnings for steering or brakes, they clear after the car is first driven.

Rescan with vcds, clear all faults, re-scan and see if the rear window comms errors come back. If they don't, things are looking good. Try the rear window manual switches, if the motors run that's good. Turn off the ignition and replace both motors and glass if you removed it. Do another vcds scan before finally replacing the trim.

At this stage the windows up/down positions may be wrong - e.g they stop half way? Don't worry about it, that is sorted by doing an all windows and sunroof reset when everything is back.

The alternative fix for this problem is to take your car to a genuine EOS Stealer. They can use their special diagnostics kit to reflash firmware in the rear window modules. Although I don't believe the firmware itself is corrupt, this simple procedure (for them) starts by erasing the module memory of any bad code.

This is a nasty EOS problem which can occur when batteries are left to go flat, are replaced, chargers are connected whilst the car leads are still attached, or the car is jump started from a flat battery. ALL BAD THINGS TO DO. You cannot completely exclude both modules have been 'fried' and electronically damaged which my method won't fix.

Reply if you can get the modules recognised by vcds with no comms errors.

Sorry to jump on this thread but I have just bought a 2008 Eos with the same kind of problem. The left rear door module has no communication. The previous owner let the battery go flat due to Covid and was replaced shortly before I bought it from them.
After speaking to them, the windows and roof worked perfectly before the flat battery.

Now, instead of doing a manual reset by doing the battery disconnect trick and taking out the fuse. Could I just take it to VW get the memory re-flashed and it would clear any bad codes left by the module?
Cheers.
 

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The dealer would probably just do the battery disconnect trick as well. That's if you're lucky and they don't disappear down a diagnostic rabbit-hole and charge you an arm and a leg for the privilege of letting them learn about your car ;)
 

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Could I just take it to VW get the memory re-flashed and it would clear any bad codes left by the module?
I've already explained this common problem. Each electronic module contains a Boot block of code copied from its non volatile memory , normally in ROM which doesn't get corrupted. If the boot code is corrupt the module doesn't know what to do at key on when it is addressed by CAN commands or a diagnostics scan.

There are only 2 ways I know that will solve this problem: The first is to remove always on power from the module and hope the residual voltage charge holding the corrupt Boot code will self erase and be copied back correctly when power is next applied. Most will try disconnecting the battery, shorting the leads together and leaving them for up to 24 hours. This doesn't always work because these modules incorporate a series protection diode and the small residual voltage of around 1 V will not discharge through shorted power leads.

The second method and best for DIYers is to take the car to a dealer and specifically ask for the rear window module firmware to be reflashed which they can do via the OBDII connector. A faulty module won't communicate using normal CANbus controls because the CAnbus communication software is corrupt. However, V.W proprietary ODIS 'Engineering' diagnostics can communicate at low level and reflash modules without Canbus working. V.W have a vast database of firmware for these modules. The Dealer price to reflash a rear window module is insignificant compared to the labor of replacing it. Read up on reflashing e.g PC modems and what happens when they get 'bricked'. This is similar. Bricking can also happen to engine ECU's if you play around with re-mapping!

IMHO the module firmware in ROM isn't actually corrupt, it's the self copy of the CANbus comms software that is and stops communication. When a dealer does a low level module reflash, the first step is to erase and I suspect if they could erase just the volatile memory or reset it, when the module was power cycled it would copy back the correct code. If the dealer reflash won't work then you can assume the module has a hardware fault and would be replaced.

What V.W could have done in their hardware design is add a discharge resistor on the volatile memory supply power rail to ensure any residual voltage would be discharge if power was disconnected for X minutes.
 
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