[peterb]

Hi, everybody. I haven't poked under the hood much yet, but I sense I'm going to need to remove the battery itself to find a good grommet through which I can pass a positive amp cable near the pedals on a US model. Has anybody removed the battery? Any quick notes on where the straps or bolts are?

(The car is a 2009, but it seems that all of them have the same basic layout.)

Thanks a lot, folks!
Peter

 

[cambourne7]

the 2009 model in the uk has a cover on in and there is detailed instructions in the manual for removing it. The engine bay is very tight i dont know if the us model as a different engine layout\?

 

[peterb]

the 2009 model in the uk has a cover on in and there is detailed instructions in the manual for removing it. The engine bay is very tight i dont know if the us model as a different engine layout\?

Far as I can tell the US manual doesn't include instructions. If you have a minute, could I trouble you to look and see what your manual says about it? I think there may be a couple of hex bolts on the sides, but I'm not certain. If you don't get to it, no trouble, but I would be really grateful for your time if you do find a moment.

Peter

 

[cambourne7]

not a problem i need to scan a few pages for someone else tomorrow so i will have a look for you as well

If you PM me your email address I will scan the instructions for you as well might be helpful

 

[peterb]

Okay, I got it. Here is the info for those looking to remove the battery, which seems essential for running a power lead for an amplifier. If that's your motivation, you are looking for the grommet between the battery and the fuse box, about six inches down from the top of the engine compartment. (You'll need a wire snake, too.)

None of this information is guaranteed, and if you don't know what you're doing, I suggest you ask a qualified shop to do it. Remember, you're playing with enough current in an automobile battery to injure you seriously or even kill you. Obviously I take no responsibility for you or for the information in this post. But if you're crazy enough to try...

Remove the battery cover by pushing on the tab toward the front end that says "Push." It just lifts off.

Remove the two battery leads using a 10mm socket. Do NOT over-loosen, as the bolts contain stops for the nuts and you'll jam the nuts or strip the heads of the bolts.

The battery is surrounded by two items, a hard plastic "cage" and an insulating sleeve (which is inside the "cage"). Remove the front half of the cage by lifting straight up. It takes a little pressure -- not a lot -- because there are plastic tabs which snap in below. Then remove the rear half. They look very similar, so be sure to note which is front and which is rear. This will save you some grief when you go to reinstall them.

Finally, remove the insulating sleeve by lifting straight up. It also has a simple closure on one corner (in my case the front driver's side), but it seems like it doesn't matter where that goes.

Now you're looking at the bare battery. Look down the left (US passenger) side of the battery. At the bottom, 1-2 inches from the battery itself, is a 13mm bolt which holds a bracket to keep the battery from wobbling. You'll need an extension for your ratchet to remove this, as it's about 9-10 inches down.

REMOVE THIS BOLT CAREFULLY! If you drop it, you won't get it back without a trip to your local mechanic.

Once you lift the bolt out, you can remove the rectangular bracket by reaching down and sliding it out to the left. REMOVE THIS BRACKET CAREFULLY. If you drop it, you won't get it back without a trip to your local mechanic. Not that I'd know, of course. DAMMIT. DAMMIT. DAMMIT.

Once the bracket has fallen down into the pan -- er, I mean, once you lift the bracket out -- the battery is held with very slight tension by plastic clips on the right (US driver) bottom side. There is nothing to remove, but if you lift the battery straight up, you may break the clips. Instead, lift up gently on the left (US passenger) side of the battery first, and the right side should follow.

To reinstall, just reverse the order. The biggest pain is getting the two parts of the plastic cage back together, but the whole procedure is really just a five-minute shot. They key is the 13mm bolt and bracket under the battery.

Questions? Feel free to email me directly: braverman ... at ... earthlink ... dot ... net.

 

[Prof. DGR]

Replace 2009 EOS Battery

The posts on replacing the 2009 EOS battery was only somewhat helpful. Here is what I learned from replacing my battery today. I live in Orange, CA so I went to Walmart and bought a Group H6 battery for less than $120. Only remove the front 1/2 of the surround cover, leave the back alone. Make sure you pull straight up! Before you try to remove the 13 mm bolt that is easy to see but also easy to loose if you aren't very smart ... first remove the air passage tube that is about 3 inches in diameter with a channel lock pliers you will be able to reach down inside and make sure you don't loose the 13 mm bolt and anchor plate... Very easy to replace the battery! A few lights display on the dash after the car starts up again... this is normal and will go away after driving a bit. I hope this help to encourage you to save some $$$. The Walmart battery has a 3 year replacement warranty and than prorated for the next two years.

 

[djnb]

I concur that you only need to remove the front half of the surround cover. To make the removal very easy, push in the two tabs on the bottom of the front face of the cover to release it from the base while you pull up. See the attached picture.

As to the 13 mm bolt for the battery clamping plate, loosening it using a ratchet with extension. Once loose, one can reach around under the front of the battery and safely remove the bolt and plate using ones fingers.

 

[Marshall Kamena]

After 5.5 years my 2009 EOS needs a new battery. I wondered, "How difficult can it be to replace one?" Now hat I have read the experiences you gentlemen have had, I have reconsidered.

Also, I am confused about the narrative above with a handsome piccture of the engine room with two arrows pointing at something I cannot identify which seems to be a long way from the battery area.

dnjb, Do you have any close-up shots of the " two tabs on the bottom of the front face of the cover to release it from the base while you pull up"?

 

[voxmagna]

It wasn't clear to me at first and I've managed it without instructions. He got the arrows in the wrong place. This can happen when you edit and resize photos.

First you follow the idiot instruction stamped 'PUSH' on the top of the battery cover to release and remove it. Then you wiggle about the front half of the side cover and lift it upwards away.

Half way along the length of the battery on either side at the bottom (where I think he meant to put his arrows), you can see clamps and bolt holding it down to the tray. You will nead a socket and long extension.

Things can go wrong just simply changing a battery - radio code lost, doors lock (worst when keys left in ignition!) and a cockpit warning light might come on until you start and drive the car. But you may be lucky and just have to put back the radio code, it can depend on how quick and positive you are disconnecting and connecting. Flash the terminals on and off several times and the brain can go berserk.

 

[silvershadow]

Hi Marshall,

If you are replacing the 12V battery in the engine bay, you need to be aware the original battery was made to European standards and may be smaller than your equivalent US-specification batteries so check these dimensions before installing to ensure the replacement will fit the available space.

This was certainly the case when the battery in my partner's Eos had to be changed; despite both batteries being rated at 600CCA, the local battery equivalent was noticeably larger than the original however it fitted in and the hold-down clamp installed without any problems. The only problem was the battery cover no longer fitted the battery so the battery sits in the engine bay in its naked glory.

You do have to be careful with losing your presets and radio code; the installer who did our changeover used a rechargeable emergency battery pack with a fused and diode-protected patch cord to feed 12V power into the vehicle electrical system through the auxiliary power/cigarette lighter socket whilst the battery was being changed over. Note it is critical both doors are left open, the ignition switch must be turned on and the panel lights lit before the battery is disconnected [negative cable first followed by the positive], the battery replaced ensuring the new battery is fully charged, if not, recharge before installing and reconnected [positive first followed by the negative]. Start the car and check battery charging voltage [should be 14V or higher] before disconnecting the auxiliary power pack.

This is the first time I have never replaced a failed car battery as not one of our local automotive retail outlets had a suitable replacement in stock and there was a 2 or 3 day wait for one to be delivered with an extra charge for freight. Our breakdown road service organisation had one suitable replacement battery in stock and their price included at-home installation within an hour at a price which was less than the battery-only price from a retail outlet so the decision to use them was very easy to make.

Also, be careful undoing and replacing the battery clamp bolt to ensure it is not dislodged to drop into the engine bay into a hard-to-access/impossible to access location .

 

[Marshall Kamena]

My thanks to Voxmagna & Slvershadow. I am now performing the operattion!

 

[Marshall Kamena]

Battery Job Accomplished

All the previous tips & experiences mentioned here were very helpful. I was apprehensive about losing the 13 mm tie down bracket bolt, but was saved by the Professor's comments. Moving the 3" air tube out of the way by squeezing the clamp to release the tube & push it out of the way was really a help. It exposed the bolt so that my big hand finished unscrewing it. My hand never left my arm nor the bolt.

My own tip is to remember when reassembling, the red (plus) battery cable stays inside the compartment on the front of the battery, AND the black (neg) cable stays outside the rear of the battery compartment.

My USA battery was the exact size of the original Exide factory one. It's called "Super Start Extreme" with a 5 year warranty. Available at O'Reilly Auto Parts in USA & I guess Ireland. Also Auto Zone for a lot more money. 600 CCA & 95 min reserve. Made by Johnson Controls, the people who keep our missiles accurate.

 

[voxmagna]

Made by Johnson Controls, the people who keep our missiles accurate.

Nah, the Chinese or Koreans just bought out the trading name or copied the label !

 

[sshanken]

Easy

Just replaced my 2010 battery today. Instructions were right on, especially removing the 3 inch pipe. One thing, make sure you leave the clamps on the pipe. If not, real hard to get back on.

 

[m1etc]

EOS battery - can someone send picture

Hi - My friend replaced my battery for me 6 months ago with one purchased at Walmart. I haven't had any problems, but when I took my car to the dealer for maintenance, they told me the battery was installed 'backwards' and wanted $180 to reinstall -- yes, more than the cost of the battery ! Can someone please send me a picture of their correctly installed battery ? I'll also post a pic of mine in case anyone has some suggestions. Thanks !!!

 

[voxmagna]

Photo attached for TDi.

Bear in mind some batteries can have their positive and negative terminals swapped over. You have to be careful to get the replacement battery with terminals configured as per my photo. Then they fit.

Perhaps your dealer was trying to sell you the correct battery you should have bought?

 

[Alan G]

Great Post

Replaced the battery on my 2012.
Instructions were perfect. I did not take off the back part of the shell. I did not lose the hold down or bolt. I did unfortunately pulled the spring clamp back on the hose which was a little tricky getting back on. And duh, the positive cable needs to come inside the front part of the shell. Bought the battery at Auto Zone. Exact match with handles.

 

[rcboater]

It sounds like most of you did not have to use an alternative power supply to keep the electronics alive while changing out the battery... any issues there?

I figure it is time to replace my OEM battery-- car will be 6 years old in May.
(It did spend both last winter and this winter in the garage with a battery maintainer attached.) I figure I should do this before it is time to take the car out this spring.....

One more thing: Are people buying regular batteries or AGM types? (Not sure which the car came with..)

 

[voxmagna]

Your conclusion should be: Backup the system with a temporary battery/power supply connected before the swap and have zero issues. Or just go for it, swap the battery and sort out afterwards what doesn't work properly.

If you are technically savvy you will cope with option 2. If you are not, then option 1 is safest, or leave it to the dealer.

Are people buying regular batteries or AGM types?

I buy the biggest battery I can get in the space that has the highest cranking current and at the lowest price.

 

[silvershadow]

It sounds like most of you did not have to use an alternative power supply to keep the electronics alive while changing out the battery... any issues there?

...............................................

Not correct - it appears everyone above did use a back-up power supply to protect their presets and custom settings as they would have specifically mentioned a successful changeover without using a back-up power supply.

The road service technician who did our changeover was emphatic a back-up power source must be used when changing the battery due to their experience with problems encountered with modern vehicle electrical systems if they were completely disconnected from the battery. This may be as simple as being unable to reactivate the car multimedia entertainment system if the owner does not have or cannot find the system security code. Another possibility would be the necessity to visit to a service dealer with a diagnostic/programming unit to reinstate lost custom presets for other vehicle functions.

Why would you try to take chances with changing the battery without the protection of the back-up power supply?