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We should all know by now that if any EOS windows do not work, the roof cannot be operated because of built in fail safe features.

Most often a window failure will be due to the regulator assembly seizing up. The motor and controller attached to the regulator has over current and over temperature protection and a repair usually involves transferring the motor/controller unit over to the new (expensive) OE part. The front window regulators carry heavier longer glass and the long glass wiping seal may allow water inside the door cavity causing the regulator wire to rust and fail.

If a rear window fails it is bad news because the regulator unit with motor/controller attached has to be removed upwards from the slot - see my long post on what is involved.

I had BOTH rear side window controllers fail.:( The window controllers in the EOS are designated as follows:

J386 Front driver door/window control unit.
J387 Front passenger door/window control unit.
J388 Rear left door/window control unit.
J389 Rear right door/window control unit.

vagcom will give fault messages, but this one is a serious electronic fault that cannot be fixed. I suspect the module is forced to disable without reset, or there is a firmware error:

Address 62: Door, Rear Left Labels: 1K0-959-703-GEN3.lbl
Part No SW: 1Q0 959 703 A HW: 1Q0 959 703 A
Component: Tuer-SG 004 1202
Coding: 0000128
Shop #: WSC 00020 000 1012551
VCID: 346C6C2457979781BA7-8061

1 Fault Found:
01333 - Door Control Module; Rear Left (J388)
014 - Defective
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 72: Door, Rear Right Labels: 1K0-959-704-GEN3.lbl
Part No SW: 1Q0 959 704 A HW: 1Q0 959 704 A
Component: Tuer-SG 004 1202
Coding: 0000128
Shop #: WSC 00020 000 1012551
VCID: 356A51205CED8E898D9-8060

1 Fault Found:
01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389)
014 - Defective

The EOS rear controllers are not CANbus but a single wire LINbus. They use earlier version 1.0 standard, NOT 1.3 introduced after 2003. I cannot remember the wiring to the front door controllers, but suspect they too will be single wire LINbus.

Most VAG window/door controllers are full 2 wire CANbus and incompatible with the EOS modules. if you get a used module it must have come from an EOS and have the same part number. I have opened up both EOS and GOLF modules with a 'similar' part number. The EOS module has few chips, the Golf modules have Canbus 2 wire transceiver chips. My rear controllers had communication because I could scan and get the header data. I could also operate the windows with manual buttons. but the roof controllers only took the rear windows down 1/2 way and roof operation stops. Well, the fish tank covers can't hinge out can they!

The VW replacements for the rear window controllers are changed to a new manufacturer Kuster part nos 1Q0 998 792 VW2 (right) and 1Q0 998 793 VW2 (left). The old left rear drive unit was 1Q0 959 811N. They now use a totally different 6 pin connector. The motor is shorter (weaker?) and the connector now sits at an angle of 45 degrees with a greater chance of water penetration.:mad: Their replacement 'ZSB' drive comes with installation instructions which require the wires and pins to be removed from the old connector and fitted to a new connector shell supplied with the kit. This is a difficult task even with a pin removal tool, because the rear part of the pins clamping the wires expands and stops the pins being pushed through. I struggled on the first one, but attacked the second old shell with cutters and a grinder to remove it. The replacement units require re-coding with vagcom, so remember to save a full scan when you first buy vagcom! Both my rear units were coded 0000128.

Why didn't VW supply a male to female interconnection link in their kit? There's another option if you get fed up, which is to buy some spare 'Timer' pins and fit new pins on the loom - they could have included those.

When you have fitted the replacement, recode it same as before and test with vagcom. You can test with the motor mounted to the regulator or free standing. After clearing there should be no fault codes. I haven't had to replace a front unit and I cannot confirm if you would get this new type kit for those.

http://www.kuester.net/en/
 

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