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Discussion Starter #1
Evening everyone.

I have recently purchased a 2007 Eos with a sunroof / roof issue.

I have managed to swap the roof for another, and have it opening and closing, albeit manually at the moment.

My problem is that when i bought both the car and the replacement roof, people had taken apart the rear headlining sections, with the draw strings which open and close them.

My question is does anyone have a diagram / pictures of how these are routed and secured in place ?

Many thanks in advance for your help

John
 

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A brave man! You could contribute a lot to this forum by writing up what you have done with photos because very few have gone the whole hog swapping over a roof. I've never had reason to remove my headlining and myself and others would love to get some info.

There is a poster here wanting to know how to solve a problem with the latch at the front on the A pillars and how to get to the black nylon cords which we think are attached.

VW sell a complete kit of replacement draw strings for the EOS. I will check, but I don't think the oldish shop manual I have covers those.and there is probably a seperate service sheet or guide that goes with the draw string kit. If you can track down some part numbers for the kit from a dealer, they may lead you to the installation procedure? :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That would be much appreciated.

I'll post some pictures on progress so far, and attempt a bit of a write up.

Jobs far from finished, but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel....

John
 

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Searching the VW parts list for black nylon cords is a bit of a nightmare when you don't know what they call them in the German to English translation! I've not found them yet, but I know they are available and could be something that got introduced later on? They are pre-assembled with loop crimps and are not something you can easily make and look good. I suggest you visit a VW Stealership to see if they can give you a part number and price?

I had to buy something else a couple of years ago and the packet included fitting instructions which were not in the manual. This might be the same? :confused: V.W don't repair roof parts, they supply and fit a complete new roof with the internals all in place ready to be lowered by hoist and fixed to the car. These cords are critical preset lengths and provided yours are o.k you should be able to tell if they are correctly routed or not. The interior trim flaps are generally a pain and can jam if you don't get them right. Although the cords are pulling them and they flip back with a spring (?) they have a cunning shape profile to work with the pull cords,

Just found this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBLfA14SqJQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwsE_duA5nQ
.
 

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These are over 100 quid just for one side. I nearly fell over as I getting a price for 2 as spares. Needless to say, I didn't buy them.
 

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When I need them I'm going to try some very fine multi-stranded flexible stainless wire and crimp fishing ferrules I bought to make the end loops. At least they won't stretch or fray.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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Very much a yes! :):)

Here are some suggestions, others might chime in:

How to remove the headlining without damaging it. With an old spare roof you will be able to see how they assemble it and what could be broken if you don't start the right way. :( most would need either access behind the lining at the front for a sunroof repair, or access to the rear headlining section. Can these be removed separately or does the whole lot come out? The manual talks about 'hoops' - what are these?

Sunroof, how to get the shade out first step, then access to the motor and octopus cables.

Photos of the hinge mechanism when it is extended either side behind the trims and headlining when the roof is closed, preferably also showing the location of any 'hidden' hydraulic rams connected to the roof pump.

Bolts on the hinges have been known to work loose causing hard to find rattles. I'd recommend Loctiting them but photos showing where they are and the hinge 'shims' mentioned by others would be helpful.

The roof front latch: Photos and how to access the mechanism attached to the roof hinge that puts on the front locks when the roof is closed.

If your old roof had some part of the hinge bent putting it out of alignment, photos of what part on the hinge assembly got bent or distorted?

I envy you with a spare roof to play with and hope we are not asking you for too much. :cool:
 

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Very much a yes! :):)

Here are some suggestions, others might chime in:

.................................

I envy you with a spare roof to play with and hope we are not asking you for too much. :cool:
John, I am certain every Eos custodian who visits this forum will appreciate whatever information you can provide on how to approach roof maintenance especially any comments you can include about things to be wary of and avoiding creating problems from inappropriate techniques.

I certainly will............................
 

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WOW! That is serious work. I'd love a 4 post lift. I'm too old to get setup with one now and should have done it years ago when cars started getting more 'modular'.
 

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You are one brave guy and I take my hat off to you, I look forward to your posts on how this is all going back together.

Mick
 

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Hi John,

Seriously you are going where no home mechanic has gone before on the Eos, what you are doing now will be incredibly helpful to the rest of us and will give many of us more confidence in tackling roof problems which have been a daunting prospect due to the complicated and fragile nature of the roof mechanisms.

Hi Vox,

WOW! That is serious work. I'd love a 4 post lift. I'm too old to get setup with one now and should have done it years ago when cars started getting more 'modular'.
I am hoping to get one of these next year as an alternative to having a four post lift, should make a lot of jobs easier and less time consuming.


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/332856860658
 

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It looks a lot of money for what it is and you can't walk around under the car? I made a pair of very long shallow incline ramps to get my EOS off the ground. If I had my time all over I would look around garage machinery auction sites for used lifts. Small garages are struggling to survive and new safety regs are always coming along. What I like is the sliding (Hydraulic?) addon they use at the front to lift the body and leave both wheels and suspension relaxed. I also liked the old type swivel plates they used to use for checking wheel and steering play. I have a pair of strong swivel chair bearing plates I might modify for that.

Don't underestimate how heavy that lift might be to move about. I have a Clarke mcycle scissor lift table on wheels which is seriously heavy. Mine is manual hydraulic and ok for a bike, but for a car I'd want electric pump hydraulics, push button with remote and single phase.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok Next bit, just trying to trouble shoot the electrics.

My "new" roof, using old ECU and "new" pump, gives the following readings:

111101100010. I think it should be 111011001100 when the roof is up?

I've manually closed the roof and reset the hydraulic rams (therefore locking roof).

I think I've identified the sensors involved, but would welcome some thoughts on the next steps forward.

John
 

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You seem competent with what you are doing so explanation at a technical level should be a lot easier. This is what I would do:

I would start in the roof controller box left side of the trunk. All the roof sensor wires terminate on the multi way connectors. I can help you with the pinouts I've already posted here. The sensors are mostly Hall type electronic sensors. The voiltage on the sensor line at these connectors will be either a '1' high - about 4.8 volts or '0' low - about 0.7 volts depending on the sensor position. The logic measured with a voltmeter compared to what vcds tells you may be reversed but essentially the sensor is one way or the other. If you don't see near 5V or zero volts you have a broken or disconnected wire problem. Here's a bunch of jpegs from the Ross-Tech site, then I'll edit my post when I've located my post with the roof controller pinouts.

I'll need a second post!
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Vox,

re the garage hoist - contact the new hoist suppliers as they often do replacement installations and it is a sales advantage if they can onsell the old hoist to people such as yourself. They can also quote overhaul costs if the hoist requires maintenance due to neglect.

A large number of world-wide members of my other car club have successfully obtained home car hoists by this means.
 

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Yes, the convention and for ordering any car parts from parts lists is always with the driver sitting position. This then works for left and right hand drive cars. You have to stop and remind yourself if you are working under the hood.

If you are using a VW parts list online or offline you have to be careful getting the part with the correct handing. Also they list parts by engine or body type in the same block and there can be a confusing list where the small print defines type, engine and year.E.g Ordering brake parts from a VW parts list can be very confusing as there are so many variants. Even parts resellers can get them wrong.

Sometimes I have used 'nearside' or 'offside' and others might use 'driver side' or 'passenger side', but this is flawed for left and right hand drive cars!
 
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