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Roof Headlining & Faults

18K views 64 replies 9 participants last post by  jiffy 
#1 ·
Evening everyone.

I have recently purchased a 2007 Eos with a sunroof / roof issue.

I have managed to swap the roof for another, and have it opening and closing, albeit manually at the moment.

My problem is that when i bought both the car and the replacement roof, people had taken apart the rear headlining sections, with the draw strings which open and close them.

My question is does anyone have a diagram / pictures of how these are routed and secured in place ?

Many thanks in advance for your help

John
 
#2 ·
A brave man! You could contribute a lot to this forum by writing up what you have done with photos because very few have gone the whole hog swapping over a roof. I've never had reason to remove my headlining and myself and others would love to get some info.

There is a poster here wanting to know how to solve a problem with the latch at the front on the A pillars and how to get to the black nylon cords which we think are attached.

VW sell a complete kit of replacement draw strings for the EOS. I will check, but I don't think the oldish shop manual I have covers those.and there is probably a seperate service sheet or guide that goes with the draw string kit. If you can track down some part numbers for the kit from a dealer, they may lead you to the installation procedure? :confused:
 
#4 · (Edited by Moderator)
Searching the VW parts list for black nylon cords is a bit of a nightmare when you don't know what they call them in the German to English translation! I've not found them yet, but I know they are available and could be something that got introduced later on? They are pre-assembled with loop crimps and are not something you can easily make and look good. I suggest you visit a VW Stealership to see if they can give you a part number and price?

I had to buy something else a couple of years ago and the packet included fitting instructions which were not in the manual. This might be the same? :confused: V.W don't repair roof parts, they supply and fit a complete new roof with the internals all in place ready to be lowered by hoist and fixed to the car. These cords are critical preset lengths and provided yours are o.k you should be able to tell if they are correctly routed or not. The interior trim flaps are generally a pain and can jam if you don't get them right. Although the cords are pulling them and they flip back with a spring (?) they have a cunning shape profile to work with the pull cords,

Just found this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBLfA14SqJQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwsE_duA5nQ
.
 
#7 ·
#8 ·
Very much a yes! :):)

Here are some suggestions, others might chime in:

How to remove the headlining without damaging it. With an old spare roof you will be able to see how they assemble it and what could be broken if you don't start the right way. :( most would need either access behind the lining at the front for a sunroof repair, or access to the rear headlining section. Can these be removed separately or does the whole lot come out? The manual talks about 'hoops' - what are these?

Sunroof, how to get the shade out first step, then access to the motor and octopus cables.

Photos of the hinge mechanism when it is extended either side behind the trims and headlining when the roof is closed, preferably also showing the location of any 'hidden' hydraulic rams connected to the roof pump.

Bolts on the hinges have been known to work loose causing hard to find rattles. I'd recommend Loctiting them but photos showing where they are and the hinge 'shims' mentioned by others would be helpful.

The roof front latch: Photos and how to access the mechanism attached to the roof hinge that puts on the front locks when the roof is closed.

If your old roof had some part of the hinge bent putting it out of alignment, photos of what part on the hinge assembly got bent or distorted?

I envy you with a spare roof to play with and hope we are not asking you for too much. :cool:
 
#9 ·
Very much a yes! :):)

Here are some suggestions, others might chime in:

.................................

I envy you with a spare roof to play with and hope we are not asking you for too much. :cool:
John, I am certain every Eos custodian who visits this forum will appreciate whatever information you can provide on how to approach roof maintenance especially any comments you can include about things to be wary of and avoiding creating problems from inappropriate techniques.

I certainly will............................
 
#13 ·
Hi John,

Seriously you are going where no home mechanic has gone before on the Eos, what you are doing now will be incredibly helpful to the rest of us and will give many of us more confidence in tackling roof problems which have been a daunting prospect due to the complicated and fragile nature of the roof mechanisms.

Hi Vox,



I am hoping to get one of these next year as an alternative to having a four post lift, should make a lot of jobs easier and less time consuming.


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/332856860658
 
#12 ·
You are one brave guy and I take my hat off to you, I look forward to your posts on how this is all going back together.

Mick
 
#14 ·
It looks a lot of money for what it is and you can't walk around under the car? I made a pair of very long shallow incline ramps to get my EOS off the ground. If I had my time all over I would look around garage machinery auction sites for used lifts. Small garages are struggling to survive and new safety regs are always coming along. What I like is the sliding (Hydraulic?) addon they use at the front to lift the body and leave both wheels and suspension relaxed. I also liked the old type swivel plates they used to use for checking wheel and steering play. I have a pair of strong swivel chair bearing plates I might modify for that.

Don't underestimate how heavy that lift might be to move about. I have a Clarke mcycle scissor lift table on wheels which is seriously heavy. Mine is manual hydraulic and ok for a bike, but for a car I'd want electric pump hydraulics, push button with remote and single phase.:)
 
#15 ·
Ok Next bit, just trying to trouble shoot the electrics.

My "new" roof, using old ECU and "new" pump, gives the following readings:

111101100010. I think it should be 111011001100 when the roof is up?

I've manually closed the roof and reset the hydraulic rams (therefore locking roof).

I think I've identified the sensors involved, but would welcome some thoughts on the next steps forward.

John
 
#16 · (Edited)
You seem competent with what you are doing so explanation at a technical level should be a lot easier. This is what I would do:

I would start in the roof controller box left side of the trunk. All the roof sensor wires terminate on the multi way connectors. I can help you with the pinouts I've already posted here. The sensors are mostly Hall type electronic sensors. The voiltage on the sensor line at these connectors will be either a '1' high - about 4.8 volts or '0' low - about 0.7 volts depending on the sensor position. The logic measured with a voltmeter compared to what vcds tells you may be reversed but essentially the sensor is one way or the other. If you don't see near 5V or zero volts you have a broken or disconnected wire problem. Here's a bunch of jpegs from the Ross-Tech site, then I'll edit my post when I've located my post with the roof controller pinouts.

I'll need a second post!
.
 

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#18 ·
Vox,

re the garage hoist - contact the new hoist suppliers as they often do replacement installations and it is a sales advantage if they can onsell the old hoist to people such as yourself. They can also quote overhaul costs if the hoist requires maintenance due to neglect.

A large number of world-wide members of my other car club have successfully obtained home car hoists by this means.
 
#20 ·
Yes, the convention and for ordering any car parts from parts lists is always with the driver sitting position. This then works for left and right hand drive cars. You have to stop and remind yourself if you are working under the hood.

If you are using a VW parts list online or offline you have to be careful getting the part with the correct handing. Also they list parts by engine or body type in the same block and there can be a confusing list where the small print defines type, engine and year.E.g Ordering brake parts from a VW parts list can be very confusing as there are so many variants. Even parts resellers can get them wrong.

Sometimes I have used 'nearside' or 'offside' and others might use 'driver side' or 'passenger side', but this is flawed for left and right hand drive cars!
 
#21 ·
Thanks for the clarification, got some updates.

The hydraulic rams have now been reset, the problem was with the left hand front roof lock, where a part of the locking ram / hinge had become distorted. I'll post some pics of this tonight.

The binary coding is now in the correct sequence, but I still have an error message on the dash.

I think this refers to the boot release, which although the c claws are disengaged, does not allow the boot to open with the handle. (I have the boot lid off so it doesn't lock me out again!!) Again more pics tonight

John
 
#22 ·
The binary coding is now in the correct sequence, but I still have an error message on the dash.
That is good progress. The sensor gaps are all mentioned in the shop manual and any bent parts could stop them working. You are lucky you found it and could straighten it. Some here have had hinge damage and stealers have wanted to sell them a complete new roof. :( I've always said, if you can compare each side and get a hinge part straightened or made to pattern in a machine shop, you might not write off your EOS with high repair costs. Although as you have found, there is a huge amount of labor involved, unless you have been there before. You can tell if your hinges are located correctly and not bent by looking at the center line of the pegs as each top segment closes to the 'A' pillars. The pegs should be dead center and not offset in the holes they engage in. The shut gaps around those closed roof segments should be equal and not twisted. When you consider how far back the hinges sit and how far forwards those closing segments are, it's a very critical check. You can also check along the seal shut lines running across the roof for symmetry. Use a plastic spacer or vernier caliper.

You will get trunk lid open errors until you get it fastened in. If both your trunk lid claws are releasing and engaging correctly you should not get the dreaded trunk closed won't open problem because the emergency trunk release cable should get you out of jail. It's worth checking that release wire is working freely and releasing the latch just in case. You can use the shaft of a screwdriver to simulate the lid lock keep.
 
#23 ·
Fingers crossed, roof error message seems to have disappeared, although boot still won't open with the handle or button in the door?

I'm sure its a wiring issue, but will carry on. I've dome a similar job on an astra twin top, and whilst its very long winded, getting it working in the end is very rewarding!!

Some more pics attached, replacement roof is black, which on a silver car doesn't look too bad....
 

Attachments

#25 · (Edited)
Quick update.

Boot now fitted and opens with both handle and button in door.

Sunroof opens and closes correctly.

I've moved onto the interior headlining, and think I'm missing a peice of trim, can someone take a couple of pics for me please ?

1. How the headlining fits up to the rear window

2. How the sides fit against the roof.

Also, when i open the sunroof, the inner panel glides back with it, should it also shut, as mine has to be pulled back by hand ?

Thanks again for your help

John
 
#26 ·
Quick update.



Boot not fitted and opens with both handle and button in door.



Sunroof opens and closes correctly.



I've moved onto the interior headlining, and think I'm missing a peice of trim, can someone take a couple of pics for me please ?



1. How the headlining fits up to the rear window



2. How the sides fit against the roof.



Also, when i open the sunroof, the inner panel glides back with it, should it also shut, as mine has to be pulled back by hand ?



Thanks again for your help



John


I can tell you the sun shade doesn’t come back automatically you have to close it manually.

Mick


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#28 ·
Still some slight problems here.

1. All windows work up and down, but both rears only go partly down when operated by roof switch. Will this stop roof opening if windows are operated / opened manually using their own switch? A scan is showing 1334 on controller J389

2. Sunroof goes back all the way, but I'm struggling to get the right position for the sunroof headlining, as if its in the wrong position its stops the sunroof opening all the way. is there a correct way to fit the sunroof motor ?

3. When using roof switch, with all windows down, sunroof will retract all the way and I can hear pump start to work, this stops after a while and I get a 02805 code.

All sensors are still showing correctly, and don't move position so i don't think the pump is putting fluid to them (I've tried another pump with same result).

Anyone suggest any pointers?

John
 
#29 ·
Given that 01333 is "rear left door control module - defective, I guess 01334 is the rear right. There should be more details below the fault code, as to whether it's an issue with communication, voltage or something else. If you put the windows down manually, the roof will be happy though, and will work.

The sunroof headlining should get pushed back by the sunroof opening, and should collapse in on itself. The rearmost end of it should be behind the stops, so that it becomes taut when closed. If it's forward of the stops, that could prevent the sunroof opening all the way...?

From memory, I believe the workshop manual lists some steps that need to be taken when installing a new roof. I can't remember if they're relevant to the hydraulic system though. Worth checking, as I don't know how the fluid gets into the system after installing a new roof.
 
#30 · (Edited)
I had big problems with rear window controller faults after using a bad battery charger. I had to replace the controller. :( After doing some more work I suspected faults occur due to voltage spikes on the single wire K line, so I added a spike protection diode and no more issues since. This is likely to happen after working on a car for some days, testing things out and the battery soon goes down. Even without a bad battery charger, you might still get a 'brownout' causing firmware corruption due to low battery voltage or that initial current surge when the battery is reconnected. :confused:

Since then I've discovered dealers can reflash code inside the module if it is corrupted which I believe was the case with mine. I was a bit sceptical because my controller fault was bad communication but I guess some controllers can be recovered as long as diagnostics can access them for a reflash. :confused:This is a much easier route to consider than replacing the controller vwhich is a pig to remove. But since you have the skills to replace a roof you will probably sail through that!

https://www.vweosclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26209
.
 
#31 ·
Voxmagna,

Appreciate your comments.

i can't see that there is anything other than the controllers as a fault, as the codes that are in them are permanent.

I going to take the rear cards off later to start investigations, and I've located a pair of spare controllers at a decent price, which at least would double as spares.

I'll keep you all updated.

if nothing else its been a great learning experience!!

John
 
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