[Pepino]

So for a while my roof would begin to open and just as the assembly was supposed to lift from the windshield, it would stall and all you could hear is the hydrolic system whirrring.

Turns out that everyting has to work in order for the roof to retract completely. The side wings that move out were getting caught on the fabric of the roof. Sometimes the one on the left, other times the one on the right. If I reached back and tapped the wing to help it out, then the roof would continue operation.

My 40k service fixed the problem. I read previously on vwvortex.com that when some people's roofs completed opeing the flaps would close one after the other instead of at the same time.

Just like a bicycle, the tension of the metal lines in the roof will stretch over time and will need re-tensioning. The stretched wires cause the mechanism to operate 'out of sync' and can cause hangups. The dealer should check this at your 40k checkup.

If you have similar problems consider this and let you dealer know.

I can't remember if I had posted this before, so please forgive me if I have. At least this post has the repair required to fix it!

Finally starting to cool off here in Atlanta.

 

[GOgg]

Hopefully I never need this information but forewarned is forearmed. Thanks for the tip.

 

[SiJ2000]

Bowden cables shouldn't really stretch if you keep the hinges of the flaps a little lubricated to make sure they operate smoothly. Also, the flaps do operate at different times as the bowden cables are attached to the latches which secure the tailgate flap to the tailgate frame. If you listen carefully, you can hear that they operate one at a time on lockup. This is normal.

However, if something did cause the bowden cables to stretch/loosten, then I 100% agree with you, they won't operate in time for the roof to work properly...

Luckily for us, VW have put in so many sensors to check all this stuff. On most other convertibles, the roof would just snap the flaps off if this happened!!!

 

[Pepino]

That's interesting to hear, Simon. I wonder if there was a bigger problem in the mechanism that VW just neglected to tell me? I do know, however that it took nearly 45min just to re-calibrate the roof.

 

[SiJ2000]

Re calibration is a long process as it has to be done in stages to make sure that all the sensors pick up the right signals at the righ times. Any that are out mean that section needs re-adjusting, then it needs calibrating again...

Once done, it should be fine though as long as they have fitted everything back together well

 

[silvershadow]

Bowden cables shouldn't really stretch if you keep the hinges of the flaps a little lubricated to make sure they operate smoothly.
.............
Luckily for us, VW have put in so many sensors to check all this stuff. On most other convertibles, the roof would just snap the flaps off if this happened!!!

This highlights my most important advice to those beginning to take an interest in looking after their "special" car - always do your own preventative maintenance where possible instead of relying on the dealer to do this.

My experience over many cars from different manufacturers and dealers has been that the small routine jobs are the first to be neglected by the dealer staff because they are either too fiddly or the mechanic does not have the time to do them because of their workload. Because most of the items are "out-of-sight, out-of-mind", the owner will not think of checking to see if they have been done.

Read your service manual and get the dealer service manager to show you the critical preventative maintenance items.

 

[Peachey169]

SiJ2000 - you seem knowledgable - can you help me with an issue with my roof?
There is what looks like a shoelace or para cord that runs through a channel inside the bottom of the rear window - this folds the inner trim lining when the hood moves up and down. This cord is really frayed (just like a shoe lace) - the techie chap at Listers looked at it and has never seen one this frayed and the the dealer is quoting - wait for it - £450 to replace it, as it comes with the inner roof lining...

Help - any suggestions?

 

[ppalma]

That's not an unusual problem. The cord you mean goes through an eyelet riveted to the rear window and through another brass eyelet connected to an elastic cord running inside the mentioned channel, right? The fraying is usually caused by an ass-hole taking a set of pliers to straighten out the eyelet riveted to the rear window. This damages the surface of the eyelet and causes abrasion with the cord. Is your eyelet silver or greenish-brown?
Anyway, there is a cord repair set (actually two), so there's no need to order a complete roof lining.
However, replacing the cord will only postpone the problem. The eyelet should be replaced, but because it is riveted you'll end up with half a rivet bouncing around inside the rear window. Theoretically you could remove the damage fom the eyelet by gently sanding it, but to gain proper access you would have to remove the bottom plastic cover from the rear window, which will break for sure...

 

[rosiepuff86]

Anyway, there is a cord repair set (actually two), so there's no need to order a complete roof lining.

Hi really sorry to thread crash! Newish owner with a 56 plate Eos V6 which had the snapped cord when I got it.

I called the dealer in Chester and they also told me it's a full roof lining.

My boyfriend has recovered the captive eyelet on the elastic behind the trim panel under the rear windscreen and given the metal eyelet where it snapped a good polish up with a Dremel.

My question, do you know any part numbers for the cord repair kit?

Mods, if I need to post a new thread rather than try to hijack this oneI'm very sorry please move or delete it.

Thanks all, hopefully as I learn more I can contribute to this forum!!

 

[ppalma]

Good question... I'll see if I can get the VW part numbers for the cord repair kits...

 

[ppalma]

Ok, if anyone is willing or in need to check this out, I believe the part number for the inner trim repair set is 1Q0 898 160. This should include a number of chords, elastic band, elastic chords, screws and eyelets, all that is needed to repair any frayed chord or weak elastic.

 

[silvershadow]

Ok, if anyone is willing or in need to check this out, I believe the part number for the inner trim repair set is 1Q0 898 160. This should include a number of chords, elastic band, elastic chords, screws and eyelets, all that is needed to repair any frayed chord or weak elastic.

If this checks out OK, I will be buying 2 kits and putting them away for future use as my partner's car will be with us for the rest of our lives. It will be a "classic car" in the years to come.

 

[ppalma]

I just got the word that the complete part number is 1Q0 898 160 B, and it contains a full repair set for the complete inner trim. Previously there were two repair sets, one for the side bar trim and another for the headlining. It seems they were "united", probably because they were dirt cheap and too small to handle.

 

[rosiepuff86]

This is fantastic news. THANKS!

Sounds like my boyfriend has some interesting installation work ahead...

 

[silvershadow]

I just got the word that the complete part number is 1Q0 898 160 B, and it contains a full repair set for the complete inner trim. Previously there were two repair sets, one for the side bar trim and another for the headlining. It seems they were "united", probably because they were dirt cheap and too small to handle.

Thanks for this information - now to find out how much extra is added to the price to cover freight across the Equator.