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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I bought and planned to install a VW OEM rearview camera in the VW logo trunk lid release. I ran into trouble at the git go! It seems the removal of two out of three screws that hold the trunk lid release were rusted in place. The screws fit into metal thread inserts that are molded into the inner plastic/fiber glass support assembly. One screw just snapped off and one was so rusted it caused the thread insert to just spin in situ!!

The attached photo shows the opening for the trunk lid. The blue arrows indicated the two screws that are causing me trouble. I used a Dremel to cut off the screw head that was just spinning in place. The plastic/fiber glass support bracket is shown inside the yellow circles.

My question for the forum is, what suggestions are there to get the two broken/rusted screw studs out with the original thread lock and how to get new thread locks back in the hole after I get the rusted studs and original thread locks out?
VW EOS Trunklid.jpg
 

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There must be water or condensation around there? Do they look like self tapping screws and are they threaded into ABS or into a metal clip? Or do they have a standard screw thread and they have inserted a threaded bush into the plastic. Are the screws going into a blind shallow hole and is there paint finish on the opposite side? It's hard to advise not seeing and having the problem. I have used something called 'rivnut inserts' which are like a pop rivet but come in various metric thread sizes. They can be fitted from one side, but if the other side is visible or painted you can't use them. Metal into metal is hardest to deal with once a screw gets seized, metal screw only into ABS should be a lot easier unless there's a metal bush insert? It's hard to do, but once you know the metric thread size, if the thread is into a bush you can grind the screw flat, center punch it, drill out the seized thread with a tapping size drill and try to retap the thread. The thread won't be clean cut but probably sufficient to hold the emblem on. Replace the screws with oiled stainless.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply and ideas! The screws are/were definitely NOT self-tapping, As the photo shows, the thread lock (helicoil type insert) is molded into the plastic. The whole trunk lid seems to be plastic and the inner "skeleton" assembly is covered with the outer body piece, so the support assembly cannot be seen from outside the car. I thought about doing something like you suggest but I don't think I can drill out the metal thread locks because they are just spinning in the plastic. I've tried just pulling the thread lock out but it won't budge. It spins in place but has no vertical movement. Maybe it has some sort of lip at its base that keeps it from being pulled out.

Maybe I could use a plug cutter bit and drill into the plastic completely around the thread insert. Then, break out the "plug" and fill the hole with epoxy. After the epoxy hardens I could figure a way to drill a fresh hole for a rivnut, helicoil or something similar. Thoughts?
 

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If their hole gets bigger you can use a larger rivnut and metric screw? I suspect it has a mushroom flange at the rear which stops it pulling through? Nothing sticks to ABS. If you grind it flush to the plastic without melting it, Is there enough space behind to push the remains through and lose it? I don't think V.W wanted you to take it apart! Are these 'cage nuts'? These are steel square sided nuts held in a square cage with tabs that locate into a panel. Once the screw seizes in the nut it just rotates in the cage and being behind a blind hole you can't get it out. I can't see the tell tale slots on your photo that the cage could clip into from behind so you might not have them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I finally got the thread lock and left over screw studs removed! I used my Dremel again and routed out the strange, chalky "plastic." Sorry for the blurry photo but I hope you can discern the brim or lip on the thread lock piece. That kept me from being able to just pull it out.

The blue circle in the photos shows where I enlarged the hole to remove the thread lock piece. It has to be about 5/16 inch to allow you to pull it out. I don't think it is ABS nor fiber glass. As I routed it, it just became white powder; I have no idea what material it is.

Now my plan is to epoxy in replacement thread locks and proceeding with the project. Interestingly, there was no moisture getting into the trunk. The screws holding the VW logo latch assembly were exposed to the weather from OUTSIDE! That is how the rust got started.
VW EOS trunk lid hole and thread lock.jpg
 

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Ah, I can see now it's one of those bushes inserted into a blind hole in the material during molding. I've met them before and filler or adhesives may stick to the bush but not the material. If you have the right size Helicoil insert and tap, try to cut a new helicoil thread and fix the insert in with epoxy. It looks like there's sufficient material to do it. You don't have much space to work but I've also drilled and pinned helicoils for a horizontal pin near the end of the thread and used a shorter screw, they never twist round again. Use nylon, brass or greased stainless screws.
 

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Hello...

When I switched out latch lock to put in the reverse camera (biggest project I’ve ever done on the Eos) I had the problem with one of the three screws (luckily two of them came out smoothly). I ended off having to break that part of the old latch and drill out the old screw. For the new one ended off using another screw that seemed to fit along with the plastic part of a drywall anchor screw. Not particularly elegant, but it’s held beautifully!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Alec-
Thanks for the feedback. How did you secure the drywall anchor?
 

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This also happened to me and I used a cut down plastic rawlplug and a self tapping screw.
 

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I'm attempting to fit a reversing camera (well, I have the parts, I've got to the investigation stage) and I discovered the same issue with two of the screws.

From the outside, if you lift the trunk release flap, you can see that the top metal screw holder has a mushroom flange on it. This one, of course, does not rust. The other two screw holders seem to be encased completely, as they can't be seen from the outside.

The VW reversing cameras seem to be an even worse design for catching water, as they have a added little drain hose to stop the camera getting wet!

By the way, for anyone who struggles getting the little plastic trim retainers off when trying to remove the trunk lid trim: instead of using a 3mm hex key, you will find that these trim screws can be readily converted to T20 screws by pushing a T20 bit firmly into them. Then they can be unscrewed and reused much more easily. :)
 

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Those trim holding pegs are quite curious as I've had mine off several times. You only want one of these, slide it under the mushroom head, turn the fastener a turn with TORX (not Hex they are Torx) then pry up. There isn't much of a screw thread on them. I replace them with one turn, then tap them back with a small hammer. I suspect the V.W assembly robot uses the Torx to grip the fastener in the tool, then pushes it in?

 

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Interesting that yours are Torx. Mine were very definitely hex screws! Maybe earlier versions had hex heads and VW realised that they were impossible to undo.
 

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I addressed the rusted screws issue by drilling out the stuck screws (starting at 3mm, then 4mm, then 5mm) holding the heads with locking pliers. Mine just disappeared into a cavity. The hole that's left is suitable for screwing in the kind of sunk screw that has a thread on the outside for gripping plastic and one inside for an M5 screw. Since I had a spare rear speaker mount, I used the ones from that - they fit perfectly in the plastic, and you can use standard M5 screws to reattach the trunk release. I didn't use any fixing compound, they seemed to be in solidly enough.

I'll admit that this was one of the more worrisome tasks I've taken on - you don't want to accidentally punch a hole in your trunk lid or end up somewhere you can't come back from!
 

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suitable for screwing in the kind of sunk screw that has a thread on the outside for gripping plastic and one inside for an M5 screw.
Photo?
 

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Hopefully this is clear enough. On the other side (you have to drill them out of the speaker mount) they have grooves in, which enable them to be screwed into place with a flathead screwdriver.
22700
 
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