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Just replaced the tensioner + belt on my VR in 10 minutes yesterday. With the nightmare of the axles it's nice to see at least something is easier on the VR lol.


Does the CCTA have any idler pulleys? (Can't find one with a quick google search). Maybe post a video.
 

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Checking bearings for noise could be difficult for them but if they are a decent recon. shop and know what they are doing, they will have an electric motor and pulley belt test setup on a bench, because that is the only way to properly check alternators for their output, bad diodes or regulator I assume you did an electrical load test and measured the battery voltage to be around 14.5 volts at 2.5-3K rpm? I mention that just in case there's an internal electrical fault causing it to give out some charge but have a very high load. I mention the fan because it is easy to get a blade bent with handling and pulling bearings then have it just touch the casing. There isn't usually much clearance. Did it spin ok by hand?

Did they recon. your alternator or give you back a shiny non-VW substitute as there are plenty of Korean and Chinese look alike substitutes around? It should have VW part numbers on it.

Take it in on the car first to let them hear it.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Just replaced the tensioner + belt on my VR in 10 minutes yesterday. With the nightmare of the axles it's nice to see at least something is easier on the VR lol.


Does the CCTA have any idler pulleys? (Can't find one with a quick google search). Maybe post a video.
There is only the tensioner. No idler pulleys.

It took me about 2 hours to remove the alternator, remove the pendulum mount, remove right side engine mount, drop the engine, pull the tensioner and then put it all back together. Wasn't too difficult. The hardest part is maneuvering the alternator out.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Checking bearings for noise could be difficult for them but if they are a decent recon. shop and know what they are doing, they will have an electric motor and pulley belt test setup on a bench, because that is the only way to properly check alternators for their output, bad diodes or regulator I assume you did an electrical load test and measured the battery voltage to be around 14.5 volts at 2.5-3K rpm? I mention that just in case there's an internal electrical fault causing it to give out some charge but have a very high load. I mention the fan because it is easy to get a blade bent with handling and pulling bearings then have it just touch the casing. There isn't usually much clearance. Did it spin ok by hand?

Did they recon. your alternator or give you back a shiny non-VW substitute as there are plenty of Korean and Chinese look alike substitutes around? It should have VW part numbers on it.

Take it in on the car first to let them hear it.
They definitely rebuilt my OEM alternator. I will bring the car to them tomorrow if my wife let's me drive it. She probably will now that it is below freezing here.
 

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I'm watching this intently as mine has started intermittently making a similar 'squeal'...
However, mine is a BWA motor, not the CCTA, but they are very similar.
 

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Also, a few of the GTI boys have noted that this noise, however weird, can also be the PCV valve...
This is extra odd for me as I just had mine replaced.

Definitely worth a look.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
The whine is completely gone with the serpentine belt removed. Definitely not the PCV.
 

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The serpentine belt is only a few months old now. The alternator was rebuilt by a reputable electrical shop. I can't seem to make the whine change in any way other than revving the engine. Loading the alternator doesn't make a difference. My screwdriver stethoscope seems like the sound is still coming from the alternator, so maybe the bearings they installed are defective?

I think I'll bring it to the alternator place and get them to check if the bearings are bad.
The best thing you can do is buy a automotive stethascope, be mindful of the end of tool and listen to each piece/part one by one while running. You will find were sound is coming from.
 

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I keep rattle cans of belt spray in my workshop used mostly with 'V' belts and shouldn't be needed on a toothed belt. But if I tried that and the noise went away, it would tell me the belt was the source of noise.

A whine which changes and goes higher in frequency can be analyzed: If the belt is running at idle to 1000 rpm, that's unlikely to be the high pitched whine you hear which is most likely coming from parts running at much higher rpms. You can exclude the crank, camshafts and water pump pulleys if they are in the belt loop.

The alternator runs at up to twice engine rpm, whilst the small serpentine belt tensioner roller with its bearing will also be running very fast. The alternator will put most load on the belt, alternator bearings and tensioner when delivering its highest output i.e if the battery charge is low or headlights etc are on. If you know your battery is fully charged, turn on the main beams + rear heated screen + heated seats and heater blower at max and see if the noise changes. It doesn't confirm the alternator 100% because you also increased the belt and tensioner bearing load.

When your belt was changed, did they replace the tensioner? Check the V.W recommend for your engine. For engines with belts driving the water pump, it's recommended to change the pump, tensioner and belt at around 60k with just a belt change at an intermediate mileage or after 3 years. IMHO a quick spray of belt conditioner on the toothed side will eliminate rubber squeal and squeaks from the belt and pulleys and is the first thing I would try before removing parts.
 

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Hi

I did an s belt, tensioner and alternator pulley change on a 2007 2.0 tfsi bwa engine code. The worst bit was the alternator pulley as you you need a special tool to remove it . Other than that just three bolts to remove. I think I did a DIY post on it a while back . Might help if your engine layout is similar

Regards

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 
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