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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I bring this permanent fix to the EOS Club for a trunk water leak. This is NOT related to the large trunk seal or the front black drain channel. Yes, some might think this is just a 'nice to do' job, but I'm linking it to a 'Jailbreak' mod for the trunk lock in another thread. Once the trunk trims are removed you are only a few steps away from a peace of mind mod if the trunk electrics and the VW emergency lock release fail you!

After or during rain, you open your EOS trunk lid and water pours out from each bottom corner, near the rear light housing. I measured MY07 and got 25ml per opening! That might not sound a lot, but it adds up each opening and ends up in the trunk well underneath the roof pump. This water contributes towards permanent fogging and long term deteriation of the rear window defogger. Test your EOS with a hose or watering can over and around the gaps of the trunk lid lamps, then open the trunk.

The problem is caused by their body shape around the rear light units fixed to the trunk lid, which has a deep channel and traps a LOT of water. The lamp units fit flush and you cannot see the problem without first removing the lamp units. Do not attempt to use sillicone sealant to stop the problem, you will make swapping lamp units a mega hard job for somebody.

1. Open the trunk lid and pull off the 2 black corner trim covers, they pull off towards you.

2. Pull the rectangular cover over the lock claw forwards towards you, with help from a screwdriver at the back.

3. Using a Torx driver and a fork blade tool, lift the center of 10 poppers holding the trunk lid lining cover. Then put the fork tool under the button and lift out. These poppers don't actually have a proper center thread, but turning as you lift gets them out easier.

4. GOTCHA! There are 2 Torx self tappers left holding the cover located in the hand pull recesses either side of the lock unit. Remove them and lift the cover away.

5. Unplug the connector to the first lamp unit and remove the 3 nuts fixing it to the body. Carefully push the unit from the rear and remove it, complete with its backing sponge gasket which should be in good condition.

6. Clean around the 'channel' with alcohol because this is where you will fit the self adhesive backed Neoprene strip. I tried various sizes and finalized on 15mm wide X 6mm thick which gives a snug tight fit for the lamp unit.

7. Carefully remove the OE foam backing from the back of the lamp unit and fit it loosely into the lid housing. A couple of small pieces of double sided Sellotape help.

8. Allow about 3-4 mm overhang at the start on the bottom channel and loosely lay in the tape with its backing still on. Mark two points in the bottom channel which are raised and trim 2 small cutouts to allow the foam to sit level.

9. With the small cut outs done, start peeling off the sponge backing, allowing about 3-4mm overhang at each end, so the foam will stick out when the lamp unit is fitted, you can trim it back afterwards, scissors are best. Work around the lid housing making sure the tape butts against the OE foam gasket and doesn't creep underneath it. Cut the top end of the tape leaving 3-4mm sticking out to trim.

10. Take the lamp unit and add a smear of silicone grease all the way around the plastic edge which helps it fit in.

11. Using the flat of your hand start pushing the lamp unit into the body, put on the 3 nuts at the back but don't start tightening. You have to work quite carefully pushing the lamp unit back, tightening up the 3 nuts and pushing in further, perhaps using a plastic credit card in the gaps to push the foam in a little. Eventually, you will have the lamp unit sitting flush, even gaps around and the back nuts tight. In case you are wondering about any future trapped water or moisture from the closed cell foam, there is no steel to rot!

12 Now test your work with a watering can or hose. Look for two things: Water coming out the end of the lamp unit channel or water getting past their flat foam gasket into the trunk. You may still get a couple of drips dropping down, but that should be all. Reverse the procedure to replace the covers and trim, unless you want to do my trunk lock 'jailbreak' mod. I'll edit and add the cross links here for that:

http://www.vweosclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=160826#post160826
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Thanks vox for this clear posting. But, on my EOS, I don't see that much water coming into my trunk when I open it. Just a few drops, that is it. Maybe they have changed something (although I wouldn't know what) on my 2009/2010 model.
 

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It depends which way the car is parked in the rain, you get the problem parked on a slight up gradient when water on the roof runs over the back of the trunk lid and lights. Run the hose or a watering can over your rear lights, then open the trunk.

Somebody once complained about their clothes and laptop getting wet when they opened their trunk. Now I understand why.
 

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I bring this permanent fix to the EOS Club for a trunk water leak. This is NOT related to the large trunk seal or the front black drain channel. Yes, some might think this is just a 'nice to do' job, but I'm linking it to a 'Jailbreak' mod for the trunk lock in another thread. Once the trunk trims are removed you are only a few steps away from a peace of mind mod if the trunk electrics and the VW emergency lock release fail you!

After or during rain, you open your EOS trunk lid and water pours out from each bottom corner, near the rear light housing. I measured MY07 and got 25ml per opening! That might not sound a lot, but it adds up each opening and ends up in the trunk well underneath the roof pump. This water contributes towards permanent fogging and long term deteriation of the rear window defogger. Test your EOS with a hose or watering can over and around the gaps of the trunk lid lamps, then open the trunk.

The problem is caused by their body shape around the rear light units fixed to the trunk lid, which has a deep channel and traps a LOT of water. The lamp units fit flush and you cannot see the problem without first removing the lamp units. Do not attempt to use sillicone sealant to stop the problem, you will make swapping lamp units a mega hard job for somebody.

1. Open the trunk lid and pull off the 2 black corner trim covers, they pull off towards you.

2. Pull the rectangular cover over the lock claw forwards towards you, with help from a screwdriver at the back.

3. Using a Torx driver and a fork blade tool, lift the center of 10 poppers holding the trunk lid lining cover. Then put the fork tool under the button and lift out. These poppers don't actually have a proper center thread, but turning as you lift gets them out easier.

4. GOTCHA! There are 2 Torx self tappers left holding the cover located in the hand pull recesses either side of the lock unit. Remove them and lift the cover away.

5. Unplug the connector to the first lamp unit and remove the 3 nuts fixing it to the body. Carefully push the unit from the rear and remove it, complete with its backing sponge gasket which should be in good condition.

6. Clean around the 'channel' with alcohol because this is where you will fit the self adhesive backed Neoprene strip. I tried various sizes and finalized on 15mm wide X 6mm thick which gives a snug tight fit for the lamp unit.

7. Carefully remove the OE foam backing from the back of the lamp unit and fit it loosely into the lid housing. A couple of small pieces of double sided Sellotape help.

8. Allow about 3-4 mm overhang at the start on the bottom channel and loosely lay in the tape with its backing still on. Mark two points in the bottom channel which are raised and trim 2 small cutouts to allow the foam to sit level.

9. With the small cut outs done, start peeling off the sponge backing, allowing about 3-4mm overhang at each end, so the foam will stick out when the lamp unit is fitted, you can trim it back afterwards, scissors are best. Work around the lid housing making sure the tape butts against the OE foam gasket and doesn't creep underneath it. Cut the top end of the tape leaving 3-4mm sticking out to trim.

10. Take the lamp unit and add a smear of silicone grease all the way around the plastic edge which helps it fit in.

11. Using the flat of your hand start pushing the lamp unit into the body, put on the 3 nuts at the back but don't start tightening. You have to work quite carefully pushing the lamp unit back, tightening up the 3 nuts and pushing in further, perhaps using a plastic credit card in the gaps to push the foam in a little. Eventually, you will have the lamp unit sitting flush, even gaps around and the back nuts tight. In case you are wondering about any future trapped water or moisture from the closed cell foam, there is no steel to rot!

12 Now test your work with a watering can or hose. Look for two things: Water coming out the end of the lamp unit channel or water getting past their flat foam gasket into the trunk. You may still get a couple of drips dropping down, but that should be all. Reverse the procedure to replace the covers and trim, unless you want to do my trunk lock 'jailbreak' mod. I'll edit and add the cross links here for that:

https://www.vweosclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=160826#post160826
.
Haha! This is just fantastic! I noticed that yesterday - those two tiny holes in the trunk lid were full of water - about 20-30 ml as you suggested. I was stressing about it but now I have a solution! Good stuff!

Would you remember how much time did this take you?

Also - where can I find that adhesive backed neoprene sheet?

Thanks, heaps, Voxmagna :)

Cheers,
S
 

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Haha! This is just fantastic! I noticed that yesterday - those two tiny holes in the trunk lid were full of water - about 20-30 ml as you suggested. I was stressing about it but now I have a solution! Good stuff!

Would you remember how much time did this take you?

Also - where can I find that adhesive backed neoprene sheet?

Thanks, heaps, Voxmagna :)

Cheers,
S
I did mine just as Voxmagna advised. Took about an hour. I got neoprene from Clark Rubber here in Australia.
 
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