[teddy]

dear club members,

I used my EOS to go the shops, parked and locked car as normal.....upon my return the remote failed to drop the driver window, but it dropped the passenger side so I entered that way.

Once inside, I tried the door window switches, all dead, no clicks nothing, also the mirror control now dead, central locking buttons also dead, basically ALL the driver door controls not working.

Also the driver mirror indicator not working now, but passenger side works, and normal front / rear light indicators work.

Question:- How can I open the drivers door ? The window won't drop/open.

( I cant access the fuse box or lift the bonnet unless I can open the door )

Is this a straight to VW garage repair, or can an independant garage have the tools to take a look / repair ?

many thanks

PS: I used my cheap OBD II scan tool and it reported 0 fault codes

PSS: If i hold the remote unlock button down, both passenger windows fully drop down....but no movement on the driver side windows at all.

 

[Davo50]

Hi did you get resolution?

 

[teddy]

well yes and no

I managed to open the door by smearing washing up liquid onto the window glass roof rubber seal area

I removed the inner door panel and removed the motor for the windows ....I used some long nose pincers to manually turn the motor gear and thereby lower the window a few mm .....so now I can open and close the door without the glass rubbing on the roof seal

so far no water has entered from the rain

I've ordered a used wiring loom which I'm hoping will solve all the problems but so far I'm still waiting for that to arrive , seems it's gone missing in the post. Typical

 

[teddy]

forgot to say , I did look at the door wiring loom by the door hinges under the rubber shroud , I removed the connector but could not see any broken wires at all..........I

had to remove the door loudspeaker to be able to access the rear of the rubber shroud as it needs to be compressed from the rear before it can pop out of the door frame...........

I looked at YouTube videos that show how to remove the wiring loom shroud which is a lot more difficult than it should be

 

[voxmagna]

IMHO an actual wiring loom fault is the last thing I would have expected becaue it's held solid inside the door cavity, Unless somebody has been there and caused damage? The door control has two separate power sources on separate fuses AFAIK, one high power for all things heavy with thick wires like motors and mirrors and a second thinner wire for the control module. I would have checked for incoming voltage on those first?

 

[teddy]

Thanks for the feedback

Do you know what the two fuses are, where they're located

Fuse numbers etc

I looked at the user manual fuse board diagram but could not see any reference to door fuses

 

[voxmagna]

Fuses and layouts tend to be VIN model, options and month of build specific. One owners fuse layout like mine isn't always the same as another. A photo of MY07 Tdi low/mid line is attached, try these for starters. In fact after Rule 1, remove each fuse in the cabin and engine bay fuse boxes and test them for continuity. Then you will probably have to test the ground and supply wires with a multimeter inside the door. German cars tend to use brown and white/red wires for supply. Thick wires are a warning they can carry lots of current.

Rule 1. Always photo a fuse box before removing and testing any fuse first you get fuses back in the wrong place!
Rule 2. If a fuse is tested and found faulty, there must be a good reason to investigate its failure before replacing it.
Rule 3. If you try something simple without success, you probably need a paid for download of your VIN linked shop manual which should include wiring diagrams and fuse information specific to your car.

Remember, loss of a common ground can cause total failure of more than one item and appear to be caused by a fuse? You should be testing for both supplies and continuity of the ground wire on the door connector using a digital multimeter.

 

[teddy]

Yes thanks I will test all the fuses ....

But it's only the drivers door that has lost all switch/button function

Wouldn't a fuse affect both doors ?

 

[voxmagna]

I can't give you one simple answer and a single solution when there's not much info to go on. I'm not fault finding your car with eyes on which is an interactive test, measure and analyse process. My reply is a toolkit of suggestions for you to understand and work through yourself. After checking fuses as I suggested (simple), If you aren't confident doing checks with a multimeter yourself, then your problem may be best left for an auto electrician or dealer to fix?

If as you say you have one door working, then you should be able to compare voltages on both sides and find out what's missing or wrong? In general for the wire voltages you are focussed on, V.W will tend to use the same color and thickness wire each side. That's as much as I can suggest if you don't have door wiring information to work with.

If you or a PO has been poking around inside the drivers door, the multiway connector with the purple shell clamp and a 'Too short' wiring loom is extremely fragile and easily damaged.

 

[teddy]

Thank you , I will check those fuses tomorrow,.

I noticed the door card was a bit loose , looks like it had been removed before

Strangely ( or not?) The loudspeaker was rivetted in place , I had to drill the rivetts out ....

I can use a multimeter , but really do need another wiring loom so I can fault find , before I start dismantling the passenger door .....

 

[voxmagna]

Strangely ( or not?) The loudspeaker was rivetted in place , I had to drill the rivetts out ....

They are all like that! I can only think the door skin has better side impact protection if the speaker frame is rivetted over the large hole? Personally I'd put back nuts and bolts.

There are quite few connectors to get back in the right places, have they left something disconnected? A V.W shop left my rear tweeters disconnected before they fitted the trim covers.

 

[teddy]

All the connectors were err connected , maybe the speaker rivetts are to stop any rattles but then again hifi speakers are mostly just screwed in

I miss my previous car , a skoda fabia manual windows + mirrors , no central locking..... Ah the good old days