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Got a major issue!! I was trying to fix one of the convertible top strings with the top half open and the warning system was telling me that it was too hot! So I put the top down to rest for a few minutes as people suggest, but while the trunk was closing, it just stopped. NOW the system keeps saying top "in progress" so it thinks it needs to keep closing, but it won't stop. ....Right now the side flaps are open but the rest of the top is DOWN.

I am unable to put up ALL windows or open the trunk as the car thinks its still in the process of opening...

Finally I get a warning to that its a malfunction and take to shop. ....Says " convertible top in operation...then says"" malfunction take to shop" repeat.

ANY HELP ON HOW I CAN STOP THE SYSTEM FROM TRYING TO CLOSE/OPEN THE TOP?? ANY FUSE I CAN REMOVE?? NEED TO GET THE TOP UP OR RESET THE SYSTEM.

MANY THANKS!!
 

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First, take a deep breath and don’t just try things in desperation. That’s a sure-fire way to turn a small problem into a big one that needs a dealer to resolve. Fortunately, I think your problem is not that bad.

The car will not try to move the roof without your finger on a button. It’s telling you that, based on its sensor readings, the roof is neither completely open nor completely closed. The system does not need resetting, it is behaving exactly as it should. That warning is there for your safety, and you need to get the roof back into a safe state before the car can be driven.

If you haven’t finished working on the strings connecting to those flaps, the roof won’t be happy because the flaps are open when it’s expecting them to be closed.

DO NOT DO THE FOLLOWING WITHOUT CHECKING THAT IT WILL NOT CAUSE DAMAGE. If you are able to move the flaps to the closed position manually without damaging anything, you may be able to hold them in place and the car will believe the roof is open. From there, you should be able to then start the roof close operation (remembering to release the flaps at the correct point in the procedure, i.e. when the trunk lid opens).

If you are trying to service the roof in the midway position (unlocked and moved away from the A-pillar) you must support the roof. Search this forum for “voxprops” for how to do that safely.

You should also never move the roof while you are carrying out maintenance on it - only after the work is completed. The temperature warning goes away after a timeout and the pump switches off - it is not a reason to move the roof when you are half-way through exchanging parts!
 
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Aku is correct to tell you that what starts as a frustrating problem can easily go to bigger problems and cause damage.
The car will not try to move the roof without your finger on a button.
That's important because if the roof pump is running and the roof op. continuing without your finger on the button, there's a serious control fault because that function is how V.W protects the roof from serious damage. If this is the case, disconnect the battery for 1/2 hour then reconnect it. The roof (pump) should not be doing anything without your finger on the button. If it is the fault is elevated. I'll post my notes from a while back that might be relevant, but take note of the warnings from aku. If you have a Smartop fitted I think they can force the roof to continue operating using a 'One Touch' mode without the safeguard of holding down a button, something I would never allow just for 'convenience'.

.......I have been doing work on interior electrics with the roof part open for access and on several occasions have had the roof warning lamp lit up when there is zero response from the roof up/down switch. One reason can be the roof motor has timed out or tripped out on over temperature, so you wait several minutes and try again. In my case, I had the battery disconnected whilst the roof was open and propped which is the safest way of working on electronic parts or replacing modules.

The roof system works in conjunction with the five window glasses (including the sunroof). It seems as though you can have an electronic window module fault affecting roof operation but still have normal manual window raising and lowering.

As far as I can see, the roof system only needs to know when the glasses are at their maximum or minimum and be able to send a trigger to initiate windows to fully open or close. Essential to this operation is the window and sun roof motor limit stop detection which works by monitoring the increased stall current of the motor. They use this technique for 'pinch' protection. There are no sensors as such sensing the window open or closed status.

When the roof is stopped part way open and propped for service, the roof controller has already stored the window status - all open normally or all closed at end of the roof cycle (MFD 'ding'). However, if you disconnect the battery, have a faulty battery, or somebody disconnects the battery thinking it will system 'reset', the roof controller is stuck in limbo because each window 'down' or 'up' status has been cleared and any further roof operation is blocked.

The MFD will show the amber flashing roof warning and the roof switches will do nothing. The roof system controller is stupid because it seems to grab the window status at the beginning or end of roof operation and does not poll around each window checking real time as the roof operates, nor does it re-send the 'all windows down' instruction it does at the start. Once the roof controller re-learns the windows are fully down it can be moved in either direction from a stopped midpoint after a battery disconnect/reconnect. Most of the 12 or 13 roof sensors are active when the parts reach a particular position. Therefore, not being transitory, the controller doesn't need to store anything. Only the windows which lack separate Hall sensor limit switches need their top or bottom limit positions stored.

To regain control of the roof when stuck in this state after re connecting the battery, momentarily operate each window up then down to their bottom limit stops with a fast up/down click on each button. Be careful to just do a momentary 'flick' on the switch because the rear side flap covers could be out and you can only raise the rear window glasses about an inch.

The roof controller has now re-learned the window and roof glasses are all on their bottom stops and the roof switch should now operate the roof to open or closed from its intermediate stuck position. I shall copy this info to my glove box manual!

Vox.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
First, take a deep breath and don’t just try things in desperation. That’s a sure-fire way to turn a small problem into a big one that needs a dealer to resolve. Fortunately, I think your problem is not that bad.

The car will not try to move the roof without your finger on a button. It’s telling you that, based on its sensor readings, the roof is neither completely open nor completely closed. The system does not need resetting, it is behaving exactly as it should. That warning is there for your safety, and you need to get the roof back into a safe state before the car can be driven.

If you haven’t finished working on the strings connecting to those flaps, the roof won’t be happy because the flaps are open when it’s expecting them to be closed.

DO NOT DO THE FOLLOWING WITHOUT CHECKING THAT IT WILL NOT CAUSE DAMAGE. If you are able to move the flaps to the closed position manually without damaging anything, you may be able to hold them in place and the car will believe the roof is open. From there, you should be able to then start the roof close operation (remembering to release the flaps at the correct point in the procedure, i.e. when the trunk lid opens).

If you are trying to service the roof in the midway position (unlocked and moved away from the A-pillar) you must support the roof. Search this forum for “voxprops” for how to do that safely.

You should also never move the roof while you are carrying out maintenance on it - only after the work is completed. The temperature warning goes away after a timeout and the pump switches off - it is not a reason to move the roof when you are half-way through exchanging parts!

Thanks so much for the response!! much appreciated!!...So I managed to hold down the PLASTIC flaps that were still sticking up and that did the trick for the top to finish its cycle and go completely DOWN.

Now a NEW PROBLEM. Since it is raining today, and everything looked good, with the exception of the PLASTIC flap on the drivers side still popped up, I SLOWLY tried raising the top, and was sure to guide the PLASTIC flap ( on drivers side) into place.....As I was doing this everything stopped again and I realized that the passenger side PLASTIC FLAP got jammed in the process. Now the top is partially UP and I see where the jam is. I HAVE INCLUDED DETAILED PHOTOS IN THIS POST ( NOTE: in the photo of the flap, the little black top part popped off of the flap )
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I am thinking I need to remove the PLASTIC flap housing to unjam it? ....A little background info...The reason this whole issue started is I was attempting to replace one of the STRINGS on the FABRIC flaps that had broke. ...Been broke for a while and NEVER had an issue with any PLASTIC FLAPS ( with the exception of the one catching on cloth on the drivers side) UNTIL NOW.

Please let me know if you all have any suggestions on my next step?? For now I am leaving as is so I don't break anything else. ( Just going to fix that string thats broke since its currently accessible )

THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR HELP!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Aku is correct to tell you that what starts as a frustrating problem can easily go to bigger problems and cause damage.
That's important because if the roof pump is running and the roof op. continuing without your finger on the button, there's a serious control fault because that function is how V.W protects the roof from serious damage. If this is the case, disconnect the battery for 1/2 hour then reconnect it. The roof (pump) should not be doing anything without your finger on the button. If it is the fault is elevated. I'll post my notes from a while back that might be relevant, but take note of the warnings from aku. If you have a Smartop fitted I think they can force the roof to continue operating using a 'One Touch' mode without the safeguard of holding down a button, something I would never allow just for 'convenience'.

.......I have been doing work on interior electrics with the roof part open for access and on several occasions have had the roof warning lamp lit up when there is zero response from the roof up/down switch. One reason can be the roof motor has timed out or tripped out on over temperature, so you wait several minutes and try again. In my case, I had the battery disconnected whilst the roof was open and propped which is the safest way of working on electronic parts or replacing modules.

The roof system works in conjunction with the five window glasses (including the sunroof). It seems as though you can have an electronic window module fault affecting roof operation but still have normal manual window raising and lowering.

As far as I can see, the roof system only needs to know when the glasses are at their maximum or minimum and be able to send a trigger to initiate windows to fully open or close. Essential to this operation is the window and sun roof motor limit stop detection which works by monitoring the increased stall current of the motor. They use this technique for 'pinch' protection. There are no sensors as such sensing the window open or closed status.

When the roof is stopped part way open and propped for service, the roof controller has already stored the window status - all open normally or all closed at end of the roof cycle (MFD 'ding'). However, if you disconnect the battery, have a faulty battery, or somebody disconnects the battery thinking it will system 'reset', the roof controller is stuck in limbo because each window 'down' or 'up' status has been cleared and any further roof operation is blocked.

The MFD will show the amber flashing roof warning and the roof switches will do nothing. The roof system controller is stupid because it seems to grab the window status at the beginning or end of roof operation and does not poll around each window checking real time as the roof operates, nor does it re-send the 'all windows down' instruction it does at the start. Once the roof controller re-learns the windows are fully down it can be moved in either direction from a stopped midpoint after a battery disconnect/reconnect. Most of the 12 or 13 roof sensors are active when the parts reach a particular position. Therefore, not being transitory, the controller doesn't need to store anything. Only the windows which lack separate Hall sensor limit switches need their top or bottom limit positions stored.

To regain control of the roof when stuck in this state after re connecting the battery, momentarily operate each window up then down to their bottom limit stops with a fast up/down click on each button. Be careful to just do a momentary 'flick' on the switch because the rear side flap covers could be out and you can only raise the rear window glasses about an inch.

The roof controller has now re-learned the window and roof glasses are all on their bottom stops and the roof switch should now operate the roof to open or closed from its intermediate stuck position. I shall copy this info to my glove box manual!

Vox.
Aku is correct to tell you that what starts as a frustrating problem can easily go to bigger problems and cause damage.
That's important because if the roof pump is running and the roof op. continuing without your finger on the button, there's a serious control fault because that function is how V.W protects the roof from serious damage. If this is the case, disconnect the battery for 1/2 hour then reconnect it. The roof (pump) should not be doing anything without your finger on the button. If it is the fault is elevated. I'll post my notes from a while back that might be relevant, but take note of the warnings from aku. If you have a Smartop fitted I think they can force the roof to continue operating using a 'One Touch' mode without the safeguard of holding down a button, something I would never allow just for 'convenience'.

.......I have been doing work on interior electrics with the roof part open for access and on several occasions have had the roof warning lamp lit up when there is zero response from the roof up/down switch. One reason can be the roof motor has timed out or tripped out on over temperature, so you wait several minutes and try again. In my case, I had the battery disconnected whilst the roof was open and propped which is the safest way of working on electronic parts or replacing modules.

The roof system works in conjunction with the five window glasses (including the sunroof). It seems as though you can have an electronic window module fault affecting roof operation but still have normal manual window raising and lowering.

As far as I can see, the roof system only needs to know when the glasses are at their maximum or minimum and be able to send a trigger to initiate windows to fully open or close. Essential to this operation is the window and sun roof motor limit stop detection which works by monitoring the increased stall current of the motor. They use this technique for 'pinch' protection. There are no sensors as such sensing the window open or closed status.

When the roof is stopped part way open and propped for service, the roof controller has already stored the window status - all open normally or all closed at end of the roof cycle (MFD 'ding'). However, if you disconnect the battery, have a faulty battery, or somebody disconnects the battery thinking it will system 'reset', the roof controller is stuck in limbo because each window 'down' or 'up' status has been cleared and any further roof operation is blocked.

The MFD will show the amber flashing roof warning and the roof switches will do nothing. The roof system controller is stupid because it seems to grab the window status at the beginning or end of roof operation and does not poll around each window checking real time as the roof operates, nor does it re-send the 'all windows down' instruction it does at the start. Once the roof controller re-learns the windows are fully down it can be moved in either direction from a stopped midpoint after a battery disconnect/reconnect. Most of the 12 or 13 roof sensors are active when the parts reach a particular position. Therefore, not being transitory, the controller doesn't need to store anything. Only the windows which lack separate Hall sensor limit switches need their top or bottom limit positions stored.

To regain control of the roof when stuck in this state after re connecting the battery, momentarily operate each window up then down to their bottom limit stops with a fast up/down click on each button. Be careful to just do a momentary 'flick' on the switch because the rear side flap covers could be out and you can only raise the rear window glasses about an inch.

The roof controller has now re-learned the window and roof glasses are all on their bottom stops and the roof switch should now operate the roof to open or closed from its intermediate stuck position. I shall copy this info to my glove box manual!

Vox.
Updated below. The top closed properly, now flap is jammed. Pics in post. THANK YOU!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
FORGOT TO MENTION....All operations are frozen again , meaning when I push the top UP/DOWN button it will not let me lower or raise the top...I thought I would just try to put it back down and start over but its back to not letting me do anything "System Fault".
 

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The roof won't do anything if sensors show parts are not in the correct position. Can't remember about the rear flaps, but both sets of flaps are opened and closed mechanically by strings or wires attached to the hinge. There's no magic motors or hydraulics. They are usually sprung to normally open but pulled closed by a wire. If the flap has had something trapped in it, then it is probably misaligned and catching on the trim. There should be the same gap to the trim around the flap on all sides. The only thing electronic about the flaps are sensors saying if they are open or closed and it's obvious from your photo that one side isn't right.

Time to buy a half top cover for those emergency occasions when it starts to rain. I keep mine with the car in the trunk.

22770
 

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The roof won't do anything if sensors show parts are not in the correct position. Can't remember about the rear flaps, but both sets of flaps are opened and closed mechanically by strings or wires attached to the hinge. There's no magic motors or hydraulics. They are usually sprung to normally open but pulled closed by a wire. If the flap has had something trapped in it, then it is probably misaligned and catching on the trim. There should be the same gap to the trim around the flap on all sides. The only thing electronic about the flaps are sensors saying if they are open or closed and it's obvious from your photo that one side isn't right.

Time to buy a half top cover for those emergency occasions when it starts to rain. I keep mine with the car in the trunk.
Copy that! Any suggestions how I can go about fixing this panel/flap so I can get the roof closed? Looks like its jammed and won't give...Would you suggest taking off the flap by the 3 screws and then trying to get the roof to lower in place then replacing the flap??
 

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LEAVE THE NUTS PAINTED YELLOW ALONE UNTIL YOU HAVE CHECKED ALIGNMENT. If the flap is badly misaligned something could be bent or broken and you will have to get the flap open and move it about to see how it aligns with close parts? Have you got a workshop manual? Best to consider buying one online for DIY repairs on this complex car. When a flap jams like that and the wire goes loose, it has a tendency to come off the guides, so check that.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The flaps are aligned for clearance using the bolts/nuts marked with yellow paint. But if the flap is badly misaligned something could be bent so get your wrenches out and dive in. Have you got a workshop manual? Best to consider buying one online for DIY repairs on this complex car. When a flap jams like that and the wire goes loose, it has a tendency to come off the guides, so check that.
Copy that. Yeah, as I compare the position of the flap on the other side of the vehicle, it seems that what happened is the the malfunctioning plastic flap apparently DID NOT open properly, as the hydraulic arm ( that moves the rear window into place) seemed to continue to move into its normal position and then wedged itself forcefully in a small gap , bending up the plastic flap was still in the closed position, thus jamming up.

So I will attempt to unscrew the flap from the base ( yellow screws) then what do you suggest after that?? Should I attempt to complete top closure, then reattach the flap once everything is in place? If that doesn't work, would detaching the car battery help restart the system? ... Just wondering how you would tackle it?

MANY THANKS!!!!!
 

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Disconnecting the battery won’t help you. The roof controller will check where everything is based on the twelve sensors at its disposal, see that that flap isn’t where it should be, and refuse to operate.

Because there is a sensor on that flap that’s in the wrong place, the one thing that will make everything work correctly is to get that flap to where it should be and make it open and close correctly. My assumption is that, since you have been working with the strings, the strings are what caused the behaviour and the strings are the way to fix it. But first you will probably have to unscrew the flap as voxmagna says - then get the flap into the right position and ensure it will move correctly as it should.

You can probably leave the flap trim off until you get it working (i.e. how it looks in your photo) but the flap itself must be attached, as without it you may not get the right sensor readings and the roof will refuse to operate.

Stay calm, and only do things that you’re sure you can put back if they’re not the right thing to do. You’ve made progress and it sounds like you’re one small fix away from having your roof fully up and running again.
 

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I WAS CONFUSED BY YOUR FLAP PHOTO BECAUSE YOU HAD ALREADY LIFTED OFF THE TRIM COVER? DO NOT MESS WITH THE 3 FIXINGS MARKED YELLOW AT THIS STAGE BECAUSE THEY ARE NOT HOLDING THE FLAP DOWN!

I can't remember much about the rear flaps now, but I think the black nylon strings are only used for the non-critical interior lining covers? Although the strings are 'non critical' a broken string is more likely to have stopped the fabric hinge cover folding causing it to get trapped in the sprung flap and a critical consequential fault. Operating the roof with a broken string was a fault waiting to happen. I think the rear flaps use short wires whereas the two front flaps over the fish tanks use longer wires running further back to the hinge.

Since it is sprung to open, either the flap is not central in the aperture with equal clearance to the trim and moving hinge arm, the pull wire has got mangled and is holding it down when slack, or the flap on the side you can't see now has broken plastic parts and the pivot bar running across and centralizing the spring kicks up at one end so it doesn't sit central and flat.

I caused collateral damage to one of my front flaps during roof work when the RLS or a spurious 'one touch' kicked in and raised a rear glass whilst the flaps were closed. Pinch protection stopped the glass but not before part of the flap molding holding the bar had broken. The price of a new flap is horrendous but I managed to make some metal parts. Now I always remove the window fuses if I'm working inside the roof.

That's why I've said the OP may need to remove the flap, separate its parts and carefully check the back side for damage. Take photos and mark parts because they are a strange beast to dismantle and get parts back correctly. The flaps sometimes stick a little if there's no clearance, but don't go way out of alignment unless something has broken.

Whilst the flap is removed for inspection and repair, the roof will not operate because the flap sensor will say the flap is open at the start of the roof op. I'm not going to say how the sensor could be defeated, because the risk of operating the roof and causing more damage is too great.

The OP needs to know how to access the flap in its present closed position. The three nuts have nothing to do with the flap and you can see 3 large holes in the flap body that allow the flap to close over them. They are painted yellow as a warning not to mess with them.

Have a look at a further photo edit: The flap could be trapped at the sides or held down by the wire. The wire can be released by lifting the toggle and sliding it back into the slot when the flap should be easy to open on its hinge. If you can't fiddle the toggle up and back with pliers, try to get a loop of thin wire underneath and around to do the same. You will have to do this to get it back.

22774


Have a look at my open flap half way though a roof op. You can see the wire that pulls the flap cover closed and there's a nice symmetrical clearance gap to the plastic trims either side. You can't see the back, but there's similar clearance to the moving window hinge. Since you have already removed the top trim cover, there should be loads of clearance around the bottom hinge plate because as you see from my photo, the top trim overhangs the base plate and that is where you should have the clearance to the adjacent trim and moving hinge.

22775


 

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There have been a few views of this thread so I will share my thoughts on EOS flaps:

By 'Flaps' I refer to the hinged hard covers, not the soft fabric covers. the EOS has four. Two larger flaps at the front near the seat belt anchors covering the open cavities into which the hinges drop (fish tanks) and two smaller flaps at the rear which cover the rear window hinge and locking.

When the roof is closed the rear flaps are not visible unless you move the side roof lining covers and look down. All four flaps are sprung to be normally open vertically. Each flap consists of a hinged fixed back plate and a top trim cover held by clips that can be prised off to expose the sprung back plate underneath. Each back plate is attached to a wire that pulls the flap closed.

The two larger front flaps are fairly complex sprung assemblies with each having a pull wire routed to anchor points on the hinge visible inside the trunk after removing the hinge trim covers. The wire termination anchor is plastic and some have had them break, or the wire has jumped out of its guide. This can happen if a front flap sticks closed on the surrounding plastic trim (unequal clearance gaps). When the flap should slowly open as the hinge moves forwards to open the roof, if it sticks, the pull wire goes slack and if the flap is tapped to free it or the window opens against it, it jumps to fully open on the strong spring, causing the pull wire to jump off its guide or the plastic termination to break. Each front flap is fitted with a sensor telling the roof controller when it is open or closed.

The two smaller rear flaps cover the rear window frame locking mechanism. They use a similar but shorter connecting wire to hold the flaps closed against their strong springs BUT WITH ONE IMPORTANT DIFFERENCE: The flap pull wire is attached to the cam which rotates the locking claws for the rear window frame. THERE IS NO SENSOR FOR THE REAR FLAPS! The sensor checks the rear frame locks and not whether the flap attached by wire to it is open or closed.

The fault scenario here is the rear flap was either stuck or damaged. There are no flap sensors to abort roof operation if a rear flap is jammed closed as the rear window frame and hinge is raised for roof open. A diagnostics scan will only report the status of the rear locks and not the actual rear flap positions, because the roof monitors the lock sensor not the flap or pull wire attached to it. The point of least clearance for the rear flaps is along the inside edge to clear the window frame hinge as it's raised and unless you carefully do a roof open op. and watch the hinge sides moving up, you aren't going to see what that clearance is. The hinge isn't smooth on the side closest to the edge of the rear flaps either - there's a clip around the hinge arm holding the wiring.

With no sensors on the rear flaps, the roof op. isn't going to abort on error if a rear flap is jammed or damaged!!! The most likely outcome is the rear frame hinge will keep coming up after the locks are opened and crunch the closed flap and either damage or misalign it. The rear window frame is quite a floppy affair and any distortion to the left or right could make it hit a rear flap as its hinges are raised. If collision with flaps has ocurred, some measurements should be made with the frame hinges partly raised to check they are square and not skewed to one side.

If you suspect anything is trapping a rear flap or it isn't springing open smoothly, check the clearances around it, especially when the rear frame hinge comes up, because the roof won't stop moving if a rear flap is stuck down! The OP has serious roof aborted with lockout take to garage errors. I can't understand why a stuck rear flap cover per se is the main reason if it has no sensors and I'm now wondering if there are consequential problems e.g with the rear frame locks, which a diagnostics scan would show.

If my understanding of rear flap function is correct, the first thing to do with a suspect sticking flap is to gently prise off the top trim which should give more clearance around the sides. Since there are no sensors it should be possible to go the next step and remove the flap and wire completely without affecting roof operation. The ugly hole is hidden when the roof is closed so that's no big deal if you are waiting for a replacement part.

What starts as a simple afternoon EOS string trouble shooting on a part open roof without using props as per the manual, can turn into a fault nightmare that can go beyong most DIY skills. This is made worse without a workshop manual or diagnostics tools. That's why the serious high level warning 'Take to garage' is given.
 

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There have been a few views of this thread so I will share my thoughts on EOS flaps:

By 'Flaps' I refer to the hinged hard covers, not the soft fabric covers. the EOS has four. Two larger flaps at the front near the seat belt anchors covering the open cavities into which the hinges drop (fish tanks) and two smaller flaps at the rear which cover the rear window hinge and locking.

When the roof is closed the rear flaps are not visible unless you move the side roof lining covers and look down. All four flaps are sprung to be normally open vertically. Each flap consists of a hinged fixed back plate and a top trim cover held by clips that can be prised off to expose the sprung back plate underneath. Each back plate is attached to a wire that pulls the flap closed.

The two larger front flaps are fairly complex sprung assemblies with each having a pull wire routed to anchor points on the hinge visible inside the trunk after removing the hinge trim covers. The wire termination anchor is plastic and some have had them break, or the wire has jumped out of its guide. This can happen if a front flap sticks closed on the surrounding plastic trim (unequal clearance gaps). When the flap should slowly open as the hinge moves forwards to open the roof, if it sticks, the pull wire goes slack and if the flap is tapped to free it or the window opens against it, it jumps to fully open on the strong spring, causing the pull wire to jump off its guide or the plastic termination to break. Each front flap is fitted with a sensor telling the roof controller when it is open or closed.

The two smaller rear flaps cover the rear window frame locking mechanism. They use a similar but shorter connecting wire to hold the flaps closed against their strong springs BUT WITH ONE IMPORTANT DIFFERENCE: The flap pull wire is attached to the cam which rotates the locking claws for the rear window frame. THERE IS NO SENSOR FOR THE REAR FLAPS! The sensor checks the rear frame locks and not whether the flap attached by wire to it is open or closed.

The fault scenario here is the rear flap was either stuck or damaged. There are no flap sensors to abort roof operation if a rear flap is jammed closed as the rear window frame and hinge is raised for roof open. A diagnostics scan will only report the status of the rear locks and not the actual rear flap positions, because the roof monitors the lock sensor not the flap or pull wire attached to it. The point of least clearence for the rear flaps is along the inside edge to clear the window frame hinge as it's raised and unless you carefully do a roof open op. and watch the hinge sides moving up, you aren't going to see what that clearance is. The hinge isn't smooth on the side closest to the edge of the rear flaps either - there's a clip around the hinge arm holding the wiring.

With no sensors on the rear flaps, the roof op. isn't going to abort on error if a rear flap is jammed or damaged!!! The most likely outcome is the rear frame hinge will keep coming up after the locks are opened and crunch the closed flap and either damage or misalign it. The rear window frame is quite a floppy affair and any distortion to the left or right could make it hit a rear flap as its hinges are raised. If collision with flaps has ocurred, some measurements should be made with the frame hinges partly raised to check they are square and not skewed to one side.

If you suspect anything is trapping a rear flap or it isn't springing open smoothly, check the clearances around it, especially when the rear frame hinge comes up, because the roof won't stop moving if a rear flap is stuck down! The OP has serious roof aborted with lockout take to garage errors. I can't understand why a stuck rear flap cover per se is the main reason if it has no sensors and I'm now wondering if there are consequential problems e.g with the rear frame locks, which a diagnostics scan would show.

If my understanding of rear flap function is correct, the first thing to do with a suspect sticking flap is to gently prise off the top trim which should give more clearance around the sides. Since there are no sensors it should be possible to go the next step and remove the flap and wire completely without affecting roof operation. The ugly hole is hidden when the roof is closed so that's no big deal if you are waiting for a replacement part.

What starts as a simple afternoon EOS string trouble shooting on a part open roof without using props as per the manual, can turn into a fault nightmare that can go beyong most DIY skills. This is made worse without a workshop manual or diagnostics tools. That's why the serious high level warning 'Take to garage' is given.
This is excellent advice and information. I will get to work on this asap!...By the way.... I DID NOT know that I should support the top with anything while replacing the cloth flap strings. THIS WAS MY ERROR. I got rushed because I saw the "warning hydrolic overheated" whatever warning and tried to hurry. ...

What/How should I support the top when working on the strings/flaps etc? What would you suggest a 2x4 or something?

THANK YOU!!
 

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