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Yes, there's not a lot of clearance around that area for the rear window hinge as it comes up. All the problems appear to relate to a flap collision an/or misalignment, which could include damage to the sensor or its wiring. Removing both flaps and comparing each side, including sensors and their positions, should show something and if the lock claw has got out of sync. there is more space to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I'm afraid that's inevitable. Neither the electronic fob or emergency pull wire will open the trunk, which limits your options for manually opening the pump valve to easily move roof parts around by hand (2 people). That's because your part open roof now has all the locks closed which includes 2 'C' locks on each corner of the trunk lid. These are separate from the center lock that normally opens and closes the lid. IMHO you should leave the roof open/close switch alone until you have made sure the flaps are not obstructed with mechanical damage and there is no damage or distortion to the rear window frame. You may have to go through the difficult pain of trying to open roof locks manually to get the trunk lid open to be able to move roof segments by hand. This is much safer than pushing a button to operate a pump with 2000 psi pushing and damaging parts if already bent or damaged. If you are struggling at this stage you probably won't get that far.

As I said, worst case now, you or somebody competent needs to remove parts, know what they are doing and what to look for. I think you can undo the yellow painted fasteners and take out the flaps completely because the sensor is not part of the flap, Then you can look below the flap you removed and see what position that lock is in and if the sensor is physically damaged. I suspect the lock is open or not closed over the roller?

The flap will have to be put back and aligned as per shop manual instructions with some yellow paint re- applied. The lock should be closed and rolled over the roller which is part of the rear window frame with a part open roof and the other lock opposite should look the same. Have you got an EOS workshop manual that can be got as a paid for online download, because I think you need it?
Ok, so I was following you until this part...." Then you can look below the flap you removed and see what position that lock is in and if the sensor is physically damaged. I suspect the lock is open or not closed over the roller?

WHAT LOCK UNDER THE FLAP SHOULD I BE LOOKING FOR? THERE IS A LOCK UNDER THE PLASTIC FLAPS? WHAT SHOULD I LOOK FOR TO SEE IF THE SENSOR IS DAMAGED AS WELL??

.....AND THIS...."The lock should be closed and rolled over the roller which is part of the rear window frame with a part open roof and the other lock opposite should look the same.........

WHAT ROLLER SHOULD I BE LOOKING FOR? DO YOU HAVE ANY PHOTOS OF THIS LOCK AND ROLLER UNDER THE FLAP TO HELP ME UNDERSTAND WHAT I SHOULD SEE?

MANY THANKS!!
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Get diagnostics on it. One of the sensors on one of the locks thinks that something is not where it should be, and with that information you'll know where the problem is. It's quite possible that one of the sensors is malfunctioning, given that the error occurred after the roof seemed to close completely. It's also possible that one of the claws holding the rear screen in place is blocked. You won't necessarily be able to tell the difference between those two scenarios from diagnostics, but you will at least know where to look.
Is the dealership the only place that can do a diagnostic? ALSO...What is the rear screen?? is that the rear window? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Yes, there's not a lot of clearance around that area for the rear window hinge as it comes up. All the problems appear to relate to a flap collision an/or misalignment, which could include damage to the sensor or its wiring. Removing both flaps and comparing each side, including sensors and their positions, should show something and if the lock claw has got out of sync. there is more space to work.
Can I remove the flaps ( PICTURED IN ABOVE POST FROM EARLIER POST) Now that I have the roof completely closed? How can I get in there now without re-opening the conv top?
 

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Is the dealership the only place that can do a diagnostic? ALSO...What is the rear screen?? is that the rear window? Thanks
You can get the diagnostic information you need using a tool like VCDS or OBDeleven - read up on that on the link in my signature. Using the "roof binary data" described here you can see which sensor is telling you something is wrong. Either of those tools will cost you roughly the same as a trip to the dealer to plug things into their computer, and any DIYer should have one in their armoury. (Even those who don't want to touch the mechanics of their car are well advised to have such a tool, because it's much better to go to a dealer or mechanic with a little information about what's wrong.)

When I say "rear screen" in this context, I mean the rear window and surrounding panel, yes.
 

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It's hard to go much further. I would suggest in addition to the recommend for diagnostics you consider a paid for workshop manual so you can read how the roof system works, service procedures to remove and replace parts and then avoid expensive mistakes.

It's hard to work out where you are now because closing the roof without inspection isn't something I personally would have done. If the roof is really completely closed and locked as you say, the rear screen (window) locks would have closed unless one hasn't and the window rear edge is lying twisted up on one side?

Whilst the roof was open you had the best and safest opportunity to check parts without causing more damage. If you closed the roof automatically risking damage and now can't open it, you have brought on another scenario when my initial advice was to MANUALLY move parts whilst checking for any collision, obstruction or distortion.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
You can get the diagnostic information you need using a tool like VCDS or OBDeleven - read up on that on the link in my signature. Using the "roof binary data" described here you can see which sensor is telling you something is wrong. Either of those tools will cost you roughly the same as a trip to the dealer to plug things into their computer, and any DIYer should have one in their armoury. (Even those who don't want to touch the mechanics of their car are well advised to have such a tool, because it's much better to go to a dealer or mechanic with a little information about what's wrong.)

When I say "rear screen" in this context, I mean the rear window and surrounding panel, yes.
I have a OBD ll scanner...is that the same as a OBDeleven? if so, can you tell me how to find the code I should be looking for?
Many thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #28
It's hard to go much further. I would suggest in addition to the recommend for diagnostics you consider a paid for workshop manual so you can read how the roof system works, service procedures to remove and replace parts and then avoid expensive mistakes.

It's hard to work out where you are now because closing the roof without inspection isn't something I personally would have done. If the roof is really completely closed and locked as you say, the rear screen (window) locks would have closed unless one hasn't and the window rear edge is lying twisted up on one side?

Whilst the roof was open you had the best and safest opportunity to check parts without causing more damage. If you closed the roof automatically risking damage and now can't open it, you have brought on another scenario when my initial advice was to MANUALLY move parts whilst checking for any collision, obstruction or distortion.
Thanks for your response. So I did have someone slowly close the roof , after I fixed the jammed flap, as sdI maticulously watched both sides to make sure everything looked good. The rear glass closed perfectly and was totally even. While the roof was open I also made sure to check everything very closely to make sure everything was looking ok. Everything thing was perfect except for that jammed flap.

I have NOT attempted to open the roof after closing it and getting the ""SYSTEM ERROR" CLOSE CONVERTIBLE TOP!!"...along with the YELLOW FLASHING CONVERTABLE TOP ICON on the dash... AND the trunk NOT opening...I am concerned if I try to open it again something will get screwed up!......Is there any possibility that the TRUNK will not open simply because the system is telling it that the TOP is still OPEN??

With that being said....would any of you recommend disconnecting the battery and maybe this will reset the system if everything looks to have closed properly?? I have to put in a new battery in my car anyway and was looking to do it soon. ANY SUGGESTIONS OR THOUGHTS IF THIS WOULD BE A GOOD IDEA??

MANY THANKS IN ADVANCE!!
 

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I have a OBD ll scanner...is that the same as a OBDeleven? if so, can you tell me how to find the code I should be looking for?
Many thanks!
They're different - a generic OBDII scanner won't help you here. The link in my signature will tell you all you need to know about diagnostics. :)
 

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I have NOT attempted to open the roof after closing it and getting the ""SYSTEM ERROR" CLOSE CONVERTIBLE TOP!!"...along with the YELLOW FLASHING CONVERTABLE TOP ICON on the dash... AND the trunk NOT opening...I am concerned if I try to open it again something will get screwed up!......Is there any possibility that the TRUNK will not open simply because the system is telling it that the TOP is still OPEN??
Yes, there is a possibility of that. If the sensors are telling the roof controller that the roof isn't completely closed, it will prevent trunk operation. Additionally, if the sensors are reporting correctly, the trunk may be held shut by the locking claws.

With that being said....would any of you recommend disconnecting the battery and maybe this will reset the system if everything looks to have closed properly?? I have to put in a new battery in my car anyway and was looking to do it soon. ANY SUGGESTIONS OR THOUGHTS IF THIS WOULD BE A GOOD IDEA??
It won't do any harm (no more than changing the battery in normal circumstances would, at least) - the roof controller checks all the sensors before it does anything. It probably won't help either, but there is a small chance that it might. I seem to remember that this can sometimes stop the car complaining when you don't have suitable diagnostics available. Bear in mind that the roof may not be completely closed, so it's worth holding the roof switch in the close position after replacing the battery.
 

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If you don't have V.W compatible diagnostics or haven't learned how to use it, you are just going around in circles because help comes with more information as to what faults the car has stored. Disconnecting the battery isn't the saviour for no diagnostics, because it may leave other fault codes which can only be cleared with diagnostics. Understand that when you turn on the ignition key (even after a battery disconnect) the system scans all the roof sensors and will always error if something is wrong, unless you repaired the problem and the sensor output when re-checked is now o.k.

SYSTEM ERROR" CLOSE CONVERTIBLE TOP!!"...along with the YELLOW FLASHING CONVERTABLE TOP ICON on the dash... AND the trunk NOT opening.
I know that some faults related to sensors may put up this message when the roof is actually locked and the car safe to drive. But other faults which stop the roof mid cycle can leave the roof unlocked and the trunk will be locked so you can't open it. You have to look inside the trunk through the ski hole into the rear corners with a strong flashlight. If the trunk lid 'C' claws are closed (search and read about them!) then the roof is not locked closed securely and the trunk lid will not open.

If your trunk lid stays in that situation even diagnostics may not get you out of jail easily? The smart move when working on an EOS roof fault when the roof and trunk lid is open, is to first remove the two chrome corner hoops at the back of the lid. This will prevent 'trunk lid lockout' and allows access to the roof controller, wiring, pump, internal trims and the roof locking rams. Search here as there is plenty already posted.
 

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sorry don't see the link...can you post it?? Thanks!
Here it is - it is the word "Diagnostics 101" in blue text on the bottom line of every post by Aku Aku - just click on it and all will be revealed :

Diagnostics 101

(y)
 
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