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Discussion Starter #1
I'm growing tired of my trunk lid not aligning properly with the rest of the body. This is mainly visible when comparing the the top and bottom of the rear lights to the ones on the rear fenders. The trunk lid just leaves a couple of millimeters too high in the closed position. I tried to adjust the mechanism that pulls the trunk lid down but it was already set to the lowest position so there was no room for adjustment that way. Apart from the visual aspect, I can also hear a clunking noise when I drive over a pot hole or something as there is some play on the lid. Is there anything that I could try out to fix this?

Of course pictures would've been worth more than the whole text above but it just didn't cross my mind when I had the panel off.
 

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Are you sure both gas struts are o.k and the correct part? I posted some info about the gas struts when I replaced mine. From what I can remember when I tested and replaced mine, there is nothing in the actual hinge that could restrict how far the lid closes, but you could have a faulty gas strut and the piston rod cannot close right down. The way the gas struts work is quite clever. They provide the balancing force to lift and hold open the trunk lid, but as they get closed up due to their pivot angles they can apply some downwards force when the lid is fully closed.

If you prop the trunk lid open you can easily remove both struts, then carefully lower the lid and see if it can drop further without the struts fitted.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the tip! I didn't realize that the gas struts could also help keeping the lid down. And there's a good chance that mine are quite worn since during winter there can be loads of snow and ice on the trunk lid adding weight to it. I'll definitely give this a try in the near future when I get an opportunity and also just ordered new gas struts just in case since they were only around 20 €.
 

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Read my post where I explain these gas struts come in a range of forces, lengths and end connector fittings. I had to return a couple of sets back to fleabay sellers that had the wrong end fittings! I tested one of my original OE struts and went for a strut slightly stronger. This makes sure the trunk lid rises smoothly to fully open by itself even with rain or ice on the lid. With the old struts, the trunk lid would just 'hang' in part open positions.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Probably should've done that since I ordered the 375 N Magneti Marelli's with product code GS0818. What's the product code for the ones that you ended up going with? And I assume that the added force won't affect the opening/closing of the roof in any way?
 

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Those are as close as you will get to the OE spec and do have a real spec. They are the one's I would have gone for over cheaper versions sold as 'equivalent'. You can regard them as OE fit. Over time they will go softer, mine were 14 years old.

I went for 420N which gives a bit extra if the lid is covered in snow or ice. 375N-420N makes no difference to the roof operation. Read my post because I tell you how you can test them on bathroom scales. When you get your new struts, test them and make sure they are within about 10% of each other. You may find new they start at around 420N anyway. You still need to check the lid will close correctly, because there may be something else wrong.

When you buy the aftermarkets on Ebay there are no manufacturer labels. Magneti Marelli are 100% ok. The main thing is the tension figure which is marked somewhere on the strut, length and end fitting. The Magneti site gives the full spec. for the EOS struts, including the rod length and ends. A good place to start if you are looking at an 'equivalent' aftermarket.

http://www.vweosclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22753&highlight=gas+strut
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