There have been several posts discussing trunk lid locking issues, particularly when there is an electronic control or power problem. At least 1 member found the emergency unlock pull wire behind the ski panel didn't work.
If a trunk lid stays locked, you only have the emergency release to rely on and its design involves a path of 3 parts to operate a nylon cam in the lid lock unit - plenty to go wrong!
I had all my lock and lid trim off and was able to have a good look at the lid lock unit. To my surprise, the lid lock comes with a design to fit a cable directly to the operating cam, rather than use their silly design of a plastic push stick upwards from the rear panel.
The trims around the lock 'V' are easy to remove. the large rectangular cover has to be removed to remove the inner lining, as covered in my linked post. There is an additional black plastic cover which has small pegs and slides off to the right. This cover does an important job - it stops their plastic rod dong thingy from falling out and leaving you without an emergency release! make sure it goes back correctly. Push up the rectangulat end of their dong to make sure there is no fouling and the extra jailbreak wire operates the white cam smoothly, no friction, or you cut the nipple too long.
They chose their way because it mean't they could keep the cable wire on fixed parts of the car and not have a cable moving with the lid, even though that would be a direct coupling and more reliable. My 'Jailbreak' mod. offers a second alternative to the VW emergency pull wire - Plan B!
I worked out I could easily attach a wire but couldn't get it permanently run to the ski panel and deal with the hinging trunk lid - hinging in 2 directions due to the roof operation. The idea for the second release I came up with was to have sufficient wire with a loop end to reach the ski panel, but keep it loosely coiled and fixed to the rear panel of the lid. With the loop left exposed, it could be hooked and brought into the ski panel with a wooden pole and hook screwed on the end.
The photos are self explanatory. I used 0.7mm nylon coated stranded steel wire 2.2m long from The Scientific Wire Co. U.K which is extremely flexible and won't interfere with the OE emergency release. You could use 50lb trace wire from a fishing shop. They usually sell it with crimp ferrules. I made the nipple using a red size butt crimp, cut down so it wasn't proud in their white cam. The nylon screw is M8 center drilled 1.5mm, all I had and a bit large for their 6mm hole. I trimmed down a few threads near the head with an angle grinder to 6mm diameter. You may find cycle cable parts will fit.
I made a 70mm loop at the far end and used black pvc wire sleeve over. I wondered about red, but it would be too obvious and tempting for little fingers to pull.
The wire runs behind the lid trim cover coiled loosely behind the left bulb change cover panel, with the black loop end sticking out on the surface.
If the OE pull wire or mechanism fails, I poke a broom handle fitted with a screw hook through the ski panel, pick up the loop, pull the wire through then pull to unlock. Simple and reliable.
I already covered removing the trunk lid trim in the following post. Consider doing both DIY mods at the same time!
http://www.vweosclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25138
.
If a trunk lid stays locked, you only have the emergency release to rely on and its design involves a path of 3 parts to operate a nylon cam in the lid lock unit - plenty to go wrong!
I had all my lock and lid trim off and was able to have a good look at the lid lock unit. To my surprise, the lid lock comes with a design to fit a cable directly to the operating cam, rather than use their silly design of a plastic push stick upwards from the rear panel.
They chose their way because it mean't they could keep the cable wire on fixed parts of the car and not have a cable moving with the lid, even though that would be a direct coupling and more reliable. My 'Jailbreak' mod. offers a second alternative to the VW emergency pull wire - Plan B!
I worked out I could easily attach a wire but couldn't get it permanently run to the ski panel and deal with the hinging trunk lid - hinging in 2 directions due to the roof operation. The idea for the second release I came up with was to have sufficient wire with a loop end to reach the ski panel, but keep it loosely coiled and fixed to the rear panel of the lid. With the loop left exposed, it could be hooked and brought into the ski panel with a wooden pole and hook screwed on the end.
The photos are self explanatory. I used 0.7mm nylon coated stranded steel wire 2.2m long from The Scientific Wire Co. U.K which is extremely flexible and won't interfere with the OE emergency release. You could use 50lb trace wire from a fishing shop. They usually sell it with crimp ferrules. I made the nipple using a red size butt crimp, cut down so it wasn't proud in their white cam. The nylon screw is M8 center drilled 1.5mm, all I had and a bit large for their 6mm hole. I trimmed down a few threads near the head with an angle grinder to 6mm diameter. You may find cycle cable parts will fit.
I made a 70mm loop at the far end and used black pvc wire sleeve over. I wondered about red, but it would be too obvious and tempting for little fingers to pull.
The wire runs behind the lid trim cover coiled loosely behind the left bulb change cover panel, with the black loop end sticking out on the surface.
If the OE pull wire or mechanism fails, I poke a broom handle fitted with a screw hook through the ski panel, pick up the loop, pull the wire through then pull to unlock. Simple and reliable.
I already covered removing the trunk lid trim in the following post. Consider doing both DIY mods at the same time!
http://www.vweosclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25138
.
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