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I have a 2008 EOS 2.0, recently the computer has gone mad on me. Long story short though, here lies my problem… The other day it iced pretty bad and the dash kept insisting my trunk was open. It wasn’t, I had kept slamming it repeatedly, but to no avail. Light was still on, so it made me paranoid that on my way to work the trunk would blow off and kill someone. Idk, I’m a lil dramatic. Anywho, so I finally opened the trunk pushed the latch on the left side nearly half way down. (I could tell that wasn’t going to be a great idea by how hard I had to push it) I realize what a huge mistake it actually was. I now cannot get to anything in my trunk. The lock mechanism is fine. But the latch on the left side, that I just had to manhandle, is holding on for dear life. Any advice would be welcome. I really need my work bag out of my trunk! Lol! Ps, already tried a crowbar, wasn’t a smart move. 😑
 

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I have a 2008 EOS 2.0, recently the computer has gone mad on me. Long story short though, here lies my problem… The other day it iced pretty bad and the dash kept insisting my trunk was open. It wasn’t, I had kept slamming it repeatedly, but to no avail. Light was still on, so it made me paranoid that on my way to work the trunk would blow off and kill someone. Idk, I’m a lil dramatic. Anywho, so I finally opened the trunk pushed the latch on the left side nearly half way down. (I could tell that wasn’t going to be a great idea by how hard I had to push it) I realize what a huge mistake it actually was. I now cannot get to anything in my trunk. The lock mechanism is fine. But the latch on the left side, that I just had to manhandle, is holding on for dear life. Any advice would be welcome. I really need my work bag out of my trunk! Lol! Ps, already tried a crowbar, wasn’t a smart move. 😑
Huh? Crowbar? Ok, this one sounds fun, lets get cracking.

Not exactly sure what you did by your description. Did the remote trunk release or interior trunk release not work? Does the rear emblem handle not work? Did you try the emergency trunk release between the rear seats, under the ski pass through opening?

As for the latch are you referring to, is it the C clamp as shown in the picture?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, prior to the idiotic act I called momentarily “fixing” my issue, the trunk release on the door worked, the key fob worked, and the handle to the trunk worked. Now all those things still work, they just won’t open the trunk. I did try the emergency release, nothing. And that is the exact clamp I am referring to as the latch!!
 

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Well, prior to the idiotic act I called momentarily “fixing” my issue, the trunk release on the door worked, the key fob worked, and the handle to the trunk worked. Now all those things still work, they just won’t open the trunk. I did try the emergency release, nothing. And that is the exact clamp I am referring to as the latch!!
Good luck. Hopefully your smaller than the guy in the video

 

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LOL I saw this vid and thought there just has to be a more simplistic way of doing this! I guess I better get to work! Too bad I have no toddlers to help me out 😂. I appreciate your fast response! You’re awesome!
 

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LOL I saw this vid and thought there just has to be a more simplistic way of doing this! I guess I better get to work! Too bad I have no toddlers to help me out 😂. I appreciate your fast response! You’re awesome!
Yea, your pretty much left with crawling back there to release the clamps, unless you want to give the crowbar another try.

I am sure Vox will chime in, he did some creative work on those clamps, adding some pull wires and routing them into the passenger compartment so there wasn't a need to squeeze into the trunk.
 

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LOL I saw this vid and thought there just has to be a more simplistic way of doing this! I guess I better get to work! Too bad I have no toddlers to help me out 😂. I appreciate your fast response! You’re awesome!
If it ever happens to me, I will be worse off :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If it ever happens to me, I will be worse off :(
If it ever happens to me, I will be worse off :(
Oooh you absolutely would have a nightmare with that nice setup! That job was a pain in the … but I finally got it done! I don’t believe I will EVER put that boot back on. At one point I was sure I wasn’t getting out of that emergency door alive 🤪😂. Kudos to you and the dude in the vid! Very creative, very uncomfortable for a female as well as a man I’m sure, differently. totally workable solution! My work bag is free!!! Idk why that posted multiple times. I had started typing but left the site. Didn’t know it would automatically send 😖
 

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already tried a crowbar, wasn’t a smart move. 😑
A chainsaw would have been smarter.:) Crowbars and chainsaws will destroy the lid, wireless parts & possibly the roof latches, particularly if it's being held by the corner C claws whose mountings are very strong. If you open the ski hatch from inside you may be able to pull a bag through? If there's a simple solution I haven't seen it yet. You can search here yourself and find more information, but it's rarely a quick fix. Best outcome is if the lid is only held by the center lock, worst outcome is if the corner roof 'C' Claws are holding it and in this situation the roof parts may not be securely locked together?

You car has a fundamental problem: You said 'The computer went mad'? Diagnostics has to be used at some stage to investigate what went wrong with the roof and trunk locking control systems. Even if you managed to release the lid locks, there are 2 different lid locking scenarios and you don't yet know which is holding the lid? The system needs to be fully checked. This should include checks for any water leaks inside the car in critical areas like the roof pump, roof controller and lid lock. If this investigation isn't done, the same thing could happen again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
A chainsaw would have been smarter.:) Crowbars and chainsaws will destroy the lid, wireless parts & possibly the roof latches, particularly if it's being held by the corner C claws whose mountings are very strong. If you open the ski hatch from inside you may be able to pull a bag through? If there's a simple solution I haven't seen it yet. You can search here yourself and find more information, but it's rarely a quick fix. Best outcome is if the lid is only held by the center lock, worst outcome is if the corner roof 'C' Claws are holding it and in this situation the roof parts may not be securely locked together?

You car has a fundamental problem: You said 'The computer went mad'? Diagnostics has to be used at some stage to investigate what went wrong with the roof and trunk locking control systems. Even if you managed to release the lid locks, there are 2 different lid locking scenarios and you don't yet know which is holding the lid? The system needs to be fully checked. This should include checks for any water leaks inside the car in critical areas like the roof pump, roof controller and lid lock. If this investigation isn't done, the same thing could happen again.
I agree, I will have to run diagnostics on her. I was able to release the c clamp but the same thing occurs when I close the trunk again. It definitely didn’t fix my problem permanently. So as of now , I have it “rigged” to say the least. The issue remains. Thank you for the list of other possibilities to check for!
 

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Whenever anybody gets this problem, the first thing to do after getting the trunk lid open is remove the 4 screws fixing the corner chrome hoops to the lid. This stops the roof C claws engaging. You don't put them back until the system is proven to work reliably. After removing them if the lid is still being held closed, it must be by the center lock. The roof and lid will open normally without them, but they add some support during the lid swing out and stop you opening the trunk during the roof cycle. It's best to stand at the back with somebody else operating the roof button to add support to the swinging out lid if needed.
 

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Whenever anybody gets this problem, the first thing to do after getting the trunk lid open is remove the 4 screws fixing the corner chrome hoops to the lid. This stops the roof C claws engaging. You don't put them back until the system is proven to work reliably. After removing them if the lid is still being held closed, it must be by the center lock. The roof and lid will open normally without them, but they add some support during the lid swing out and stop you opening the trunk during the roof cycle. It's best to stand at the back with somebody else operating the roof button to add support to the swinging out lid if needed.
Are you implying removal of the chrome hoop altogether till the problem has been rectified?
 

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Yes, I've done it a few times and operated the roof without them. Look at what happens as the lid swings out: The lid is quite firmly attached to the quadrants each side connected to the hydraulic rams and the rear corner hoops only seem to provide additional centering and some light support Their most important job seems to be to stop you opening the trunk. The irony is they create more pain when things go wrong in the system because the 'C' claws are held rolled over and locked until the very last stage of roof operation when simultaneously all roof locks come on AND the trunk lid corner locks are rolled off. That's how I know if the trunk corner locks are on, the roof locks must be off because they are mechanicaly linked together. The only warning I would give is if the chrome hoops are temporarily removed and you drive the car, the C claws may get into the rolled over position (all locks off), you can open the trunk, but the roof parts aren't safely locked together.

Obviously you treat removing the chrome hoops with care as part of a service investigation. I wouldn't want to open the roof to the lid swing back position in strong winds without the claws rolled across the hoops. Driving should be ok with the lid closed normally as long as the roof isn't opened, because the rear claws are normally open. Once you get the lid open, removing the chrome claws really is the get out of jail whilst you are fault finding the roof, trunk lock and sensors. If you are investigating a faulty center lock, you can temporarily remove the upper lid part of the lock to avoid the trunk locking, or place a piece of 2x4 lumber across the back to stop the lid closing into the lock.

I did have an idea that it might be possible (without using explosive bolts!) to re-design the hoops to function normally but with an emergency release that could open them? This could be a pin pulled by a wire through the ski hatch, or an electric solenoid bolt. In the end because I had plenty of stainless wire and a drill, I fixed the wire through a small hole I drilled in the end of each C claw, allowing them to be pulled open against any residual closing force from hydraulics.

I'm sure with some creative engineering, the hoops could be re-made in stainless with the top section hinged and sprung like a carabina clip so they could be pulled open with an emergency wire - just whistle up a few in your spare time! They could be made from ABS or nylon with an outer layer of coiled resistance wire. In emergency, apply 12V until they soften then yank open the lid! Job for a 3D printer?

Fortunately, the rear locks only close over the hoops during a roof open operation, they play no part in pulling the lid down on the seal, that's done by the lock pull down motor.
 

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Many are confused when their trunk won't open. If the lid lifts up a little with a gap underneath but appears locked, the pull down motor has raised and the central lock is unlatched. If it isn't, the emergency wire release may release the latch but the two rear corner C locks are closed stopping the lid from opening. Usually it's because the roof aborted its operation before the final stage when those locks come off and the roof segments get locked together, pulling on the emergency release does nothing because the center lock is already released, or it may be releasing but the corner C locks stop the lid opening.

Before I fitted my pull wires and not having a little person to go through the ski hatch, I knew where the C locks were located and managed to get a long thin steel ruler over the trunk seal at the side to push hard against the claw. Hooking a wire attached to a long pole over it through the ski hole does the same thing. But there's a gotcha: When you move to the opposite claw, as you push or pull it open, hydraulic fluid then closes the C claw you opened! You have to use 2 people to push both open together or using my wires to pull them both. As per V.W shop manual, you aren't supposed to do any of this unless the pump relief valve is opened, but you can't get to it with a locked trunk lid! In practice it works for MY07 if the hydraulics are left standing a while. It may not be so easy on later EOSs roof pumps which had a non-return valve added but you have very little choice but to try. The one useful piece of EOS kit would be an OBD dongle that could send the roof lock and unlock control words. But that would only work with a good roof controller and pump.

Sometimes it may be possible to get diagnostics to complete the roof operation and finish that last stage, then you don't need the chainsaw. But invariably the roof aborted because of a fault and diagnostics may not (wisely) bypass it, or even talk to the roof controller if it's faulty.
 
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