[pkakaie]

Hello,
New issue with my EOS. The left rear window ( window behind driver) goes down halfway and stop when I try to open the roof. The window itself works fine if I try to bring it down with the driver door panel key. It goes halfway only when I try to bring the roof down.

I really appriciate if you could share with me any fix or suggestion before I start opening and changing stuff.

Thanks,
Pkakaie

 

[mickjane2]

Maybe you could try a hard reboot by disconnecting the battery for about a minute and just touch the positive and negative vehicle leads together to drain off any charge. you will then have to relearn the windows and drive the car for a short distance to clear the steering angle sensor codes hope this helps.

****

 

[pkakaie]

Maybe you could try a hard reboot by disconnecting the battery for about a minute and just touch the positive and negative vehicle leads together to drain off any charge. you will then have to relearn the windows and drive the car for a short distance to clear the steering angle sensor codes hope this helps.

****

Hi ****,
I tried disconnecting the battery but I did not perform the relearning. The disconnect did not help.
As mentioned earlier, the door panel switch move the window to both ends, but the roof switch will bring the rear left window halfway and this cause the roof to stop working and I have to do it from the door panel.

 

[AndyRaf]

I have more-or-less the same issue, although in my case it's both rear windows. When lowering the roof, they both stop halfway down (preventing lowering from continuing). I can lower them all the way with the window switches (and then lower the roof), but this is very annoying.

Took it to my dealership and they say both the rear window regulators need to be replaced (~$1700). I have trouble believing that both the window regulators are at fault, especially given that the windows lower/raise fine using the switch in the door. Also, the dealership has been way wrong at diagnostics in the past, so I'm skeptical. My guess is that they just dumped the codes from the regulators, saw a fault, and decided everything needed to be replaced.

Any suggestions as to what I should look at?

 

[aku-aku]

What happens if you lower the windows with the window switch before opening the roof?

 

[Batjes]

@aku-aku: andyraf already stated that then the roof will operate as expected.
@AndyRaf: did you perform the hard reset, including the relearning of the windows (all four)? If that does not help then the dealer maybe right, but ask for a printout of the codes, you are paying for that!
(I would rather wait for say 20 minutes in stead of connecting the positive and negative vehice leads... the canbus modules are fragile enough as they are... hard resets are a risk in themselves when connecting the leads to the battery back again, do not make sparks!)

 

[voxmagna]

IMHO if the window calibration is not correctly learned the glass will not respond correctly to 'One touch'. That is, with the glass full raised, a momentary touch on the switch (check ALL windows!) takes the glass down to the bottom. 'Bottom' isn't the point where the glass hits the physical stop. That lower point is called the 'service position' where the top glass line disappears just below the steel line of the door top and is the calibration zero point.The controllers count motor revolutions and set a reference above the zero stall point, similarly they work out when the glass has reached the normal top from the stall point and the window drop down.

When window regulators get worn and stiff, the glass can go down and stop due to motor over current pinch protection, because the friction is too high. Sometimes you can confirm this by helping the glass (and motor) go down with your hand to overcome any friction. If the roof system then operates as normal you have your answer.

I would say it is unusual for the rear regulators to seize up because the wire is much shorter and there is less lighter glass movement. You can try some Krytox in the rear glass channels to reduce friction. Otherwise it looks like the roof controller isn't seeing the window calibration. I spiked both my rear window controllers with a bad battery charger - my own fault. I couldn't accept both controllers failed, but they did and because they are not true balanced CANbus they are more susceptible to spikes.
.

 

[DenverVW]

Rear window closing problem

2015 Final Edition VW Eos.
The rear driver's side window goes up and down fine by itself using it's dedicated door switch. But, if I use the switch that operates all four windows simultaneously, the rear window touches the front window on the way up and goes part way back down. I can even duplicate this if all windows are down and someone operates the dedicated switch to close the rear window I can bump the edge of the rear window with my hand while it's coming up and it goes back to a part way down position.
If the front window is also closing or already closed the rear window touches it and goes back part way down. It doesn't go all the way down, but will not come back up unless I lower the front window. i.e. I have to raise the rear window first and then raise the front window.
This is annoying, but I hate to spend a lot of money at the dealer for them to maybe fix it. Something seems to be wrong with a sensor on the rear window.
Is there a simple way to adjust this so it works properly again?

Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

[paul_c]

2015 Final Edition VW Eos.
The rear driver's side window goes up and down fine by itself using it's dedicated door switch. But, if I use the switch that operates all four windows simultaneously, the rear window touches the front window on the way up and goes part way back down. I can even duplicate this if all windows are down and someone operates the dedicated switch to close the rear window I can bump the edge of the rear window with my hand while it's coming up and it goes back to a part way down position.
If the front window is also closing or already closed the rear window touches it and goes back part way down. It doesn't go all the way down, but will not come back up unless I lower the front window. i.e. I have to raise the rear window first and then raise the front window.
This is annoying, but I hate to spend a lot of money at the dealer for them to maybe fix it. Something seems to be wrong with a sensor on the rear window.
Is there a simple way to adjust this so it works properly again?

Any ideas would be appreciated.

That's weird, the rear window should take a path which never even brings it near the front window, until the very end where its front black strip slips in behind the front window and acts as the seal.

When the rear window retracts, firstly it goes mainly backwards, then it goes down, towards the end of its travel it rotates forwards slightly (presumably so its shape can clear the rear wheelarch within the side of the car) until it disappears and is fully retracted.

If yours isn't following this path, then there's something loose or broken in the mechanism.

It would probably be worth comparing left rear with right rear, to see how they differ. Its weird that it can retract with its individual switch but not on the "all windows down" switch - I suspect on its individual switch, the electrical current monitored is slightly lower, so its sensing the 'hit'. And on the individual switch, it doesn't sense the 'hit' but because something's loose, its able to physically push its way past the other window and continue.

I bet its something really simple!!!!

 

[voxmagna]

Something seems to be wrong with a sensor on the rear window.

There is no sensor as such in any window! The motor has current monitoring to detect the maximum up to stop stall and minimum down to fully open stall service position. The window drop is done by counting motor dc impulses back from from the fully up stall position and the same for normal window low (not service position).

I suspect on its individual switch, the electrical current monitored is slightly lower, so its sensing the 'hit'. And on the individual switch, it doesn't sense the 'hit' but because something's loose, its able to physically push its way past the other window and continue.

No, the controller always only monitors motor stall current and the switches just send the logic 'Go' signal to the controller.

...then it goes down, towards the end of its travel it rotates forwards slightly

It may look that way but it isn't. The glass regulator wire pulls the glass up and down in a vertical plane just like the front, but the rear glasses are curved, giving the impression that it rotates. To understand correctly how this all works you need to have removed and re-installed a rear window regulator assembly.

But, if I use the switch that operates all four windows simultaneously, the rear window touches the front window on the way up and goes part way back down.

That is happening because the glasses should not touch, the motor stall current goes up and the system thinks a kiddy has stuck their finger in so pinch protection operates and the system backs the glass down to stop fingers getting chopped off.

Is there a simple way to adjust this so it works properly again?

I bet its something really simple!!!!

That depends on the circumstances? If the front and rear windows were working normally before then something has changed and it probably won't be a shift in adjustment. There is a detailed factory procedure to set gaps between the front and rear glasses so each glass can move against the seal (between the two) be perfectly aligned and with the V.W specified gap. You don't know if the glass misalgnment is caused by the front and its mechanism, or the rear but you should get an idea from how each aligns with their seals and compare with the other side.

Search here, there is a detailed post from me about removing and replacing a rear window together with the alignment checks needed for the front and rear glasses. You cannot do one on its own without checking the other. But you shouldn't mess with either untill you find out why it's changed.

All your problems seem to stem from friction and contact between the glasses causing the motor to protect itself by stalling, stopping or reversing due to pinch protection.