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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Background:

-It's a 2008 eos, the car belonged to my father and was never involved in a crash. I know there was a leak problem (not sure where) but he had it fixed.
-No water leaks the past winter
-2 weeks ago I washed the car with just the hose, not with the 'shower' addon as I usually do. I noticed some water on the driver's seat but I assumed it happened when I opened the door
-On the last wash I found some water drops inside the drivers side again and the cloth where the roof meets the A Pillar was wet

So I started inspecting and pouring water with a bottle and I found that there is a gap between the side seal and the sunroof (photo 1, photo 2). The drain is not blocked, but if I put too much water then it gets into the cabin. On the passengers side the sunroof seal is pressed too much by the sunroof (photo 3). Looks misaligned but Sunroof moves freely and convertible operation is fine without any weird noises.

I am thinking that maybe the old leak was on the passengers side, so the mechanic adjusted the sunroof rails more to the right, thus creating a gap on the left side (?).

I can't recall if it was always like that but some wear marks on the sunroof blades suggest that this is old. Is there a fix for this and what could be the reason for this kind of gap?

Photo 1. Side sunroof seal, driver's side
Book Publication Font Line Material property


Photo 2 Side sunroof seal, driver's side
Grille Automotive exterior Rectangle Automotive design Wood


Photo 3 Side sunroof seal, passenger's side, seal pressed too much
Grey Wood Gas Tints and shades Automotive lighting
 

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so the mechanic adjusted the sunroof rails more to the right, thus creating a gap on the left side (?).
This wouldn't have been a V.W EOS roof technician because a service tool is specified to center the sunroof rails and top member. Any 'adjustment' there is the least written about and very tricky to get right. When that is done correctly (with no instructions!) the seal mating around the sunroof should have the same tension each side and the shut lines equal. If the metal shut gaps are equal and seals don't meet, the problem to address is deformed seals and you don't have anybody making adjustments like that to compensate. A further consequence of introducing a centering offset is the rear panel may not seal afterwards. There are 2 variable, the long top roof members that hold the outer seal, and the sunroof guides that position the inner seal around the glass carrier. Get the sunroof guides out of square and you might get more friction and crunch the plastic guides or damage the Octopus wires.

There's no simple fix now and you should go back to where the roof was before it was messed up by somebody not fully understanding what they were doing. It's normal for the black blades to rub as they separate the seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This wouldn't have been a V.W EOS roof technician because a service tool is specified to center the sunroof rails and top member. Any 'adjustment' there is the least written about and very tricky to get right. When that is done correctly (with no instructions!) the seal mating around the sunroof should have the same tension each side and the shut lines equal. If the metal shut gaps are equal and seals don't meet, the problem to address is deformed seals and you don't have anybody making adjustments like that to compensate. A further consequence of introducing a centering offset is the rear panel may not seal afterwards. There are 2 variable, the long top roof members that hold the outer seal, and the sunroof guides that position the inner seal around the glass carrier. Get the sunroof guides out of square and you might get more friction and crunch the plastic guides or damage the Octopus wires.

There's no simple fix now and you should go back to where the roof was before it was messed up by somebody not fully understanding what they were doing. It's normal for the black blades to rub as they separate the seal.
The thing is that my father has passed away so I have no idea if an adjustment was really ever made (it's just me making assumptions), and if there was an adjustment I don't know if it was at the local VW dealer or not.

So, a DIY fix is not possible. Is this something that can be fixed at VW or will they just suggest a whole new roof ?
 

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It's hard if you don't really know what was done before. The shut line gaps can be checked fairly easily, they should be equally symetrical both sides. The sunroof guide distances can be checked with the V.W service tool, although it's usually best to get the measurements before anything is changed.

You can start by running a piece of thin paper around between the seals. If you feel loss of friction on the paper, then there are gaps. If the gaps are along one side of a seal and tight on the opposite side, then it would suggest somebody has introduced an offset confirmed by measuring the metal to metal gaps each side with a plastic vernier (I just bought one of those). You won't have a new roof fitted on a 2008 EOS, it will be far too expensive and more than the car is worth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If the gaps are along one side of a seal and tight on the opposite side
That seems to be the case.
I will check again tomorrow, but if I recall correctly, driver's side has a gap all the way across the seal and passenger's side it too tight to fit paper.

Seems that the only solution is to make an appointment to the local VW.
 

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Don't assume all V.W Stealers know the EOS roof system well enough to work on it. You need to ask if they have an EOS roof trained technician on site. If they don't, try other dealers or ask the main V.W customer services. For the kind of work you may need done, be prepared to drive a distance to where there is a V.W roof technician. You don't want it made worse than it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
A bit late, but here is the update:
Not much happy with the outcome, local VW managed to shut the gap running along the side of the sunroof, but introduced a much smaller in length on the front of the passenger's side. At least I dont have water leaking inside now.
Seems I will have to visit the VW on the capital for a proper fix
 

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A bit late, but here is the update:
Not much happy with the outcome, local VW managed to shut the gap running along the side of the sunroof, but introduced a much smaller in length on the front of the passenger's side. At least I dont have water leaking inside now.
Seems I will have to visit the VW on the capital for a proper fix
Good Luck because I spent a day on mine and I'm not a V.W EOS roof specialist which is what you need. Unfortunately even the shop service instructions do not explain how to get it right but they do have plenty of warnings which you might read as making things worse! It's seat of the pants stuff with no certain outcome if there's any permanent misalignment to start with, caused by a roof hinge crunch or somebody being let loose not knowing what they are doing.

The whole exercise involves more than one roof part and requires harmony with all planets aligned to achieve a result. The roof seals themselves may be distorted and have a tendency to push parts away in the opposite direction as you attempt to even up the shut lines. What's missing is the absence of a center reference point to which all roof parts and shut gaps can be aligned equally to within 0.5mm for each part. The factory probably have this as a body shop roof setup jig which holds the assembled roof in a steel frame - a synthetic EOS body? Once the roof is fitted to the car there's no center reference. I've thought about it and a reference needs to come from fixed body parts which are not part of the roof system. I think it could be done using red laser pens in a holding jig fixed across the front A pillars and a rear center reference point which could be midway between the trunk lid rear fender body panels.

Even the shop manual sunroof alignment procedure using their giant micrometer service tool only measures distances between the tracks. The V.W procedure doesn't measure the corner to corner distances to confirm a square aperture, or any measurement to confirm each track is equidistant from an artificial center line running through the middle of the car.

All these setup problems IMHO confirm why V.W shops only fit new factory pre-assembled roofs.
 
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