[voxmagna]

As mentioned earlier, I don't think there's anything that regular diagnostics can do but V.W may now supply the same ABS module part covering several vehicles or years and 'programming' means flashing new firmware with the correct 'personality' corresponding to your VIN number. Every V.W electronic part has 2 defining factors - The hardware parts ID and the firmware/software ID that makes it work. You can pick up 2 modules with the same hardware code starting e.g 1Q0, but on the label somewhere MAY be the firmware version. Only V.W dealers have the files and kit to install or change firmware. V.W can also refer to their databases to ensure a replacement module dependent on others will be compatible. Sometimes older modules may need their firmware updated to be compatible. In the case of radios and Gateways, some older modules can't be updated and have to be replaced. Only If you are lucky to find a good used module of the same year and part codes is it likely to be plug and play not needing reflashing.

In my case there was no programming to do, but the way they sell these parts may have changed now? I have found parts in older parts catalogues which would list a specific V.W part number for EOS by build year and in the latest parts catalogue only see one part number covering all previous years. That way they only have to stock one hardware item which reduces stock holding at all their parts distribution depots worldwide. They could then customise (program) it for the vehicle it goes into. This may explain why your local Stealer has one 'generic' in stock? Your friendly mechanic doesn't have the firmware tools or files to do this. It's also a way of forcing you to buy from them and not cheaper 3rd party resellers.

I can see the same thing happening if you had to replace an engine ECU. There are thousand of different ECUs, most using the same generation Bosch circuit boards but with different firmware. It makes good sense to supply a 'generic' new empty ECU and flash it with firmware for the vehicle VIN when it's fitted. But that becomes a nightmare for a DIYer or independent.

You ought to open up some of these V.W computer modules to appreciate how complex they are.

 

[davery]

Where can I find the part code of my ABS module?

 

[voxmagna]

There should be labels on the module but they don't always put a label on with the firmware version, sometimes it's actually inside the controller on the circuit board. Have a look at post #1 and learn something: This is a diagnostics 'Autoscan' which you or your mechanic should have done BEFORE removing anything. It reads the header information from every module in the car it can access. Module 03 in this example is the OPs ABS unit and the information read back tells you a lot.

I can see there's a coding string so perhaps there is coding to do by somebody, but I haven't checked if there's a helper file in vcds to tell you what the coding bytes mean. I would be surprised if it were included because of braking safety implications . In situations like this that coding string could possibly be entered using a special workshop access service code allowing a new module with the correct firmware to be cloned without looking it up on a V.W database. I would think an independent mechanic would do this?

You cannot assume the data and coding from one car scan has the same personality as yours. Since you sent your original module away and you don't know what has come back to you, the only people that know the coding used for your car VIN will be the dealer from their records. If your old unit was working and could be scanned, a decent refurb company would have read that coding and re-coded the replacement they sent you. But unless you have the original coding result you have no way of knowing. You could scan that module they sent you and see how it's coded? Obviously if it comes back with a string of FFFFs or 00000s they didn't code it. I just compared the ABS coding string for MY07 with the thread below. My part number ends 'AC' not BE with a much earlier revision number and a totally different coding string structure. It's so different, it could be a later unit fitted on a service recall or replaced after a fault?

Please help me understand my VCDS faults

Hi, I have a few issues with my EOS. It was working great until I foolishly wrapped it up in a car cover to protect it from rain in December, when I took the cover off earlier this month, water had got in and it was covered in condensation and mold. When I opened the roof, the sunroof has...

www.vweosclub.com

The ABS module is a key braking system component on which the life of you and your passengers may one day depend. There comes a time when you have to accept making mistakes or wrong decisions and let professionals with access to the right resources solve the problems for you and let them and take responsibility if they get it wrong.

 

[davery]

I tried scanning the ABS module yesterday and it would not connect. Before this it connected and I could read and clear the codes. I am going to try and access the module gain today. The more I think about it, they more I am resigning myself to having the dealer fix it.

 

[davery]

So I finally decided to have the dealer fix this and got a call today the ABS module that is currently on the car is not the correct module. That would mean that UpFix, where the module was sent to be repaired, returned the wrong module. The mechanic that originally removed and sent it to UpFix no longer returns my calls and UpFix will not talk to me because I do not have the order number. I guess it's pointless anyway, as it's been two months since UpFix said it could not be repaired and the original module is probably long gone in someone else's car. I am so pissed. The dealer says they have to contact VW to find to correct module for this car. The one they have in stock can not be programmed for the car. I'm not sure if was helpful, but I had the long code, software version and hardware parts/version from before this all started and I sent it to them. Hopefully, that will help.

 

[voxmagna]

The dealer says they have to contact VW to find to correct module for this car.

That's pretty much what I was telling you. I've come across several parts which used to be listed with different part numbers on a year or VIN basis which are now listed as one part number. I have assumed these were either software backwards compatible or could be reflashed by a dealer to suit older models.

But as I said, the ABS module is tricky. I've been lucky and bought used modules from an EOS the same year and actually despite being a used module with a risk of not working, It is more likely to be compatible than the dealers new stock replacement. With a simple check of plugging it in, no hydraulics and a scan with no errors, you have a high degree of confidence, or return it to the seller.

According to my wiring diagrams, two different types of ABS unit were used on the EOS, each with a totally different multi connector. I don't know which version your dealer keeps, but if the connector isn't compatible then it definitely won't fit and coding isn't the issue.

It will cost you to have learned that cheapest isn't always best, but at least you should get a solution one way or another.

 

[davery]

That's pretty much what I was telling you. I've come across several parts which used to be listed with different part numbers on a year or VIN basis which are now listed as one part number. I have assumed these were either software backwards compatible or could be reflashed by a dealer to suit older models.

But as I said, the ABS module is tricky. I've been lucky and bought used modules from an EOS the same year and actually despite being a used module with a risk of not working, It is more likely to be compatible than the dealers new stock replacement. With a simple check of plugging it in, no hydraulics and a scan with no errors, you have a high degree of confidence, or return it to the seller.

According to my wiring diagrams, two different types of ABS unit were used on the EOS, each with a totally different multi connector. I don't know which version your dealer keeps, but if the connector isn't compatible then it definitely won't fit and coding isn't the issue.

It will cost you to have learned that cheapest isn't always best, but at least you should get a solution one way or another.

It appears the module they had in stock does fit, but can't be coded. They seem to be having an issue finding the correct module. I just sent them the original long code, software version and hardware parts/version. Will that help them find the correct module?

 

[voxmagna]

Not really, but it helps you sourcing something sold used. V.W work to year, month of manufacture and VIN numbers. They hold a master list of every original part that was put in your car the month it was built. IMHO V.W on parts are not going to be that techno centric and it's likely other coding and software versions may still be compatible? They will just cross refer your original part spec.on your car build to their parts cross reference list. V.W don't manufacture the ABS unit. The hardware and software versions will mean something to the OE manufacturer, but they won't talk to you!

V.W replaced a lot of these ABS units under warranty (when the brake pressure sensors failed?). I would expect your new replacement to be one of the 'improved' versions if they actually changed anything, then the part number would change. They must have that information because how would they know if a unit in the car was the replacement under warranty or the old unit? Your dealer may be confused looking for the original part. Get them to turn up their warranty service instructions and see what ABS units they were fitting?

There can be surprises: I bought a replacement rear window controller which was from a totally different manufacturer. Understand that V.W may still keep parts for an older car but not necessarily from the original manufacturer. In my case the window controller was similar but there was a change to the plug and how it was wired. They had supplied a poly bag with a yellow repair wire, service shop instructions and connectors to adapt to my loom.

If you've learned your lesson and the car is with a genuine V.W dealer, it's now down to them to get you back a working car. If they put in a module that doesn't work, that's their fault not yours. Throwing info at them leaves you exposed to misleading them and taking the risk.

 

[davery]

I was finally able to talked with the original mechanic that sent the module for repair. He said he marked the module before he sent it and the same module came back, but was not repairable. So I have no idea what the dealer is saying that the new module, which was ordered off the old, is not programmable.

 

[voxmagna]

He said he marked the module before he sent it and the same module came back, but was not repairable.

You cannot be sure of anything! The ABS 'Module' has three parts 1) The pump motor, the round black thing on the end, 2) The aluminium silver hydraulic valve block with d.c solenoid valves and 3) The black part with the multi pole connector that's a housing cover for the VERY complex electronic control board.

1 & 2 are probably interchangeable between modules as long as the integral pressure sensor is o.k. But the electronic control board containing the firmware has the personality software and is what is programmable or may be able to be flashed with firmware. If anybody marks the outside of the assembled module and you then hand it over to a rebuild firm, you have no idea whether the important electronic control board inside is the same, has been replaced or been returned damaged and in a worse condition? Rebuild firms can easily check the pump motor, pressure sensor and probably keep a number of used controller boards. Boards like this usually have a hardware ID and version reference on them. That means the circuit and chips should be the same and only the flashed firmware can be different. I doubt the have enough info and skill to repair and test them. I have learned that on later models like your 2010, you can get the control board separately which makes a cheaper repair as long as the integral pressure sensor is good. The Dealer has to consider 'possible variants' and work through a list of part alternatives for different setups e.g is ESP fitted, is it a stop start EOS version or has brake energy recycling?

When vcds does adaptation coding it's only changing a few 'user' parameter variables. On brake items such as this, there will be critical parameter values which I don't think even dealers could change. E.g a brake pressure sensor may be fine tuneable to allow sensors to be calibrated, but functions critical to the timing and operation of ABS would be Taboo.

As I tried to explain, if you had your car towed to the dealer without any misleading or incorrect ABS module fitted and all the hydraulic lines disconnected and plugged, they should be able to source the replacement from your VIN and build information? By leaving a part there that may be incorrect, they do what most mechanics do first and start looking to replace what's there with a part that's compatible. This can waste a lot of time ordering and opening a V.W QA'd and sealed spare part costing them a fortune which they can't return!

The last line is a reason why you may be being told porkies - They don't want to take any risks ordering the wrong part and you've made it harder for them by creating uncertainty? Why not phone another V.W dealer, give them your plate reg. and VIN to see what part they offer you? You won't like the retail price, but at least you get a second opinion on the correct part and whether it is an upgrade replacement or not? Those kind of parts may come with specific dealer installation instructions noted on their parts list.

 

[Paddy OPlastic]

Our ABS unit started throwing errors again after it had been twice repaired by ECU Testing. I sent it back under warranty and they declared that it was unrepairable this time. I wasn't surprised TBH. They offer an unlimited warranty but I guess that sometimes you get to the point of diminishing returns and they decided to cut their losses. They reimbursed the initial cost of repair (minus the shipping). I'd still recommend the company to anyone - professional polite and fair. So I sourced a reconditioned unit from Germany on eBay with two year warranty. It was kinda hard to get the coding and adaptation to stick but I managed it in the end. The guide I had was for the Golf 1K which isn't quite the same.

 

[voxmagna]

ABS control modules are electronically very complex. I think there's a misconception about companies claiming to repair them. I doubt they would have the test equipment, special manufacturer software test routines or information to replicate what the manufacturer does in the factory and to qualify their repair as they would. It's easy for them is to swap the pump and motor, harder to fix a broken pressure sensor and if they have a selection of the right circuit boards known working, they could swap those? The most I think they can do would be in a static powered mode, not when all 4 wheel sensors would normally be active.

Warranty is their let out for failing to be able to repair and fully test or finding they have to buy the expensive (even at trade price) OE assembly and can't make a profit. If there's a problem on the controller board they can't repair it so have to send another replacement or pay the V.W part price. Doing it twice over is a huge loss to them. But that's only going to work if they have a compatible module or board on the shelf. If they don't have one, then the answer is 'Your module is non-repairable'. They keep their peace and goodwill with customers, but the truth is it's not your fault, they just don't repair to board level anyway.

I'm not sure how far they can go with 'reconditioning' either, unless it's a dunk in Perklone cleaner, degrease and dry? The pump itself hardly gets any use and I'd be surprised if they were delving inside, although I did come across V.W parts listed for the pump block and controller as separate assemblies for some EOS years, both of which you should be able to source yourself via a stealer.

It was kinda hard to get the coding and adaptation to stick but I managed it in the end.

Tell us about your coding work? Did you scan and get the original coding from the broken module and then recode the same in the replacement. What coding did you use? I guess you had to use the engineering access code? I've not seen the usual table of byte option descriptions in vcds or even know if any info exists? But vcds allows you to program a copy of the coding bytes, without knowing what they do.

I have a spare used ABS unit siting in my workshop which was cheap for about £30 because sellers can't guarantee they will work for you. I made sure it was the EOS part code from a car the same year as mine. For this price you don't bother if it's the latest version or if it goes wrong in a couple of years. Most sellers just accept a return if they don't work. I plugged it in 'As is' without hydraulics and it didn't throw errors at key on or moving the car a few feet (wheel sensors working). MY07 early unit was coded 0006882, but I see a recent EOS VCDS log posted here has a later ABS hardware code with a totally different coding string: 563B6008092300FD6A1106E690200092350000. Warning: your coding may be very different!! Most sellers just accept a return if they don't work because they can't test them.

 

[klasanezop]

I looked up the part numbers for MY07 ABS module and even though I put in a new part, saw some used on Fleabay and bought another as insurance.
tech guides get-mobdrovip.com

 

[voxmagna]

There's a thread on the RossTech site about ABS long coding strings. They say later units had an extra '00' terminating byte and some have successfully entered their original coding plus '00' added at the end. Of course, if there's no comms, you don't get anywhere. I had some problems with a window controller that at first wouldn't code i.e stick. This is usually because the module expects certain codes as valid, and rejects others. It's also important that modules get the correct number of code bytes which may include leading or trailing zeroes. If these are missed out, the byte blocks are not in the correct sequence which is like coding an invalid code.

When diagnostics like vcds reads back a code it could truncate zeroes (which is why they might suggest adding them!). When entering a long code you can try entering zero-zero in pairs and count them until the field space is filled. If the correct module and label code is being used, vcds will have allocated the correct coding length field the module expects to receive. Getting a used spare of same year and just plugging it in without hydraulics to check coding and ABS light out was a simple check I did.

The major fault causing many of the same serious fault codes on later units appears related to on board components or soldering, not the pressure sensor. These include two large processor chips and nobody but experts will want to change those but I have an idea about them if a module worked after replacing them, or fails to communicate. I would suspect a processor has stopped running? You don't lose anything by carefully checking tracks and solder with an eye glass, or a stereo inspection microscope if you have one, looking for breaks or gaps. You can also add some liquid flux and go around each little leg on the cpu chips with a fine bit soldering iron and everywhere else as long as you don't put on solder bridges. Solder joints on smd chip legs produced using IR/hot air flow soldering of complex circuit boards can be a weakness when subjected to humidity and vibration.

 

[Paddy OPlastic]

Tell us about your coding work? Did you scan and get the original coding from the broken module and then recode the same in the replacement. What coding did you use? I guess you had to use the engineering access code? I've not seen the usual table of byte option descriptions in vcds or even know if any info exists? But vcds allows you to program a copy of the coding bytes, without knowing what they do.

Apologies - I didn't see this at the time.

My replacement ABS unit had exactly the same model numbers for the pump and control unit. I took the coding from the original unit and used it in the replacement. It has been a while now but I think the problem that I had was with the associated adaptations I had to do for steering and braking systems. I would code the ABS with the long code, then do the adaptations (for the steering it involves turning the wheel to the extremes and driving straight ahead for a while), power off and on again, and then check that the long code I had input was still there. For many attempts the coding reverted to zeros. It took several iterations of the coding and adaptation before it accepted the long code after a restart. I don't believe I did anything different the final time but I was getting a bit tired by then. IIRC VCDS tells you which access code to use but doesn't fill in the field for you.

 

[voxmagna]

VCDS tells you which access code to use but doesn't fill in the field for you.

VCDS and OE diagnostics can be expected to work the same and expect the same long code structure to inputing codes. There are many posting up module adaptation codes on the internet and it's entirely conceivable that leading or trailing zeros may get truncated, but are necessary when put into the adaptation code box before hitting 'Do it'. AFIK It's not always there for ABS long codes, but when you can use the vcds 'helper' it shows the breakdown as byte pairs and isn't so easy to get wrong. I think you can create a long code using a text editor like Notepad with start or end zero padding to try, then copy and paste that into the adaptation field? Saves typing in a long field and making mistakes.

The steering and ABS modules are interlinked. I have posted it here somewhere, but it's possible for diagnostics to register a steering controller fault, implying a teardown to replace it when it's not actually faulty but hasn't correctly linked itself in software to other (ABS?) modules.

 

[EGrunt]

New member here, while we do not own a VW EOS, we own a 2012 GTI with an ABS code. We bought the GTI new in October of 2011 and my wife is the primary driver. The mileage of the GTI is just over 96k. This past Monday morning my wife was starting her journey to work when she started the GTI and a brake error and air bag error message illuminated on the center screen and the accompanying light symbol activated. She drove one of other vehicles to work. I have a Innova 3160g scanner and I received an ABS module faulty code (16352-014) and under the SRS section there is a B10B300 (Pending Confirmed – Function restriction of seat occupied recognition due to implausible message).

The interesting thing is, once I restart the GTI after the third or fourth try the error message does not happen while starting the vehicle and the associated symbols do not stay illuminated on the dash after the start up sequence. The GTI can be driven all day to various destinations and when we return to the GTI it starts up with no message and works as advertised. Over the past week the only time it happens is the first start of the day when the GTI has been sitting overnight (approximately 12 hours). This morning I went outside and started the GTI and once again the same ABS code and error message on the screen. I let the GTI idle for about 30 seconds and waited for the RPMs to settle down from the cold start. I restarted the GTI and on the third start, no ABS and associated errors. Once again, I hooked the Innova scan gauge to the GTI and same aforementioned two codes were stored.
So here is where my research has led me:

• Possible bad battery, new AGM battery was installed in June of 2022. I used a multimeter and received 12.70 volts DC before starting the GTI. I also placed a charger / battery tender on the vehicle the other night to ensure the battery was fully charged before starting and the same codes and errors occurred. I had the battery checked and the place that sold me the battery said it passed every test including the load test.
• Possible wheel bearing, no hum is heard while driving. I am thinking the ABS ring may be faulty on the right rear wheel.
• Wheel sensor, I do not think my Innova scanner can recognize the code since it is not storing the associated code for the wheel sensor. I am thinking about buying a VCDS Ross – Tech scanner.
• Last but not least the ABS module may be faulty.

So, this is interesting, after three or four starting attempts, the errors and lights go away until the next day. I appreciate any and all suggestions. Thanks.

 

[voxmagna]

If you disconnect a wheel sensor then scan with your scanner and it doesn't tell you that sensor is faulty, you need a better V.W compatible scanner or get a dealer to do it. VCDS or similar will tell you which wheel sensor is actually faulting. Without it you can only guess.

After turning on the key and resetting any residual fault codes, if there is no dash ABS fault warning lit and there are no faults when scanned, the system has been self checked and proven o.k. If you then roll the car a few feet and the ABS fault light comes on with faults showing after scanning, you probably have a wheel sensor or bearing grating ring problem.

 

[EGrunt]

If you disconnect a wheel sensor then scan with your scanner and it doesn't tell you that sensor is faulty, you need a better V.W compatible scanner or get a dealer to do it. VCDS or similar will tell you which wheel sensor is actually faulting. Without it you can only guess.

After turning on the key and resetting any residual fault codes, if there is no dash ABS fault warning lit and there are no faults when scanned, the system has been self checked and proven o.k. If you then roll the car a few feet and the ABS fault light comes on with faults showing after scanning, you probably have a wheel sensor or bearing grating ring problem.

Earlier today I ordered VCDS and it should be here by Monday per the tracking number they sent me.

I am not moving the car and I am leaving the transmission selector in park. I just restart the car several times before driving it and the dash lights and error (brake and ABS) messages do not show up. Part me is still thinking it might be the battery when the first cold start of the morning is done, even thought the battery place stated it is good to go.

 

[voxmagna]

I just restart the car several times before driving it and the dash lights and error (brake and ABS) messages do not show up. Part me is still thinking it might be the battery when the first cold start of the morning is done, even thought the battery place stated it is good to go.

I'm not sure if you fully understand the system or what I'm trying to tell you?

Each wheel has a magnetic pickup sensor and there's a circular approx 60 line magnetic grating on each wheel bearing (EOS!). When the car is stationary the ABS system at key on does a static electronic check on each sensor and if the voltages and the ABS unit are ok, it passes. If the ABS warning comes on immediately at key on with the engine running before moving, the most likely fault is an ABS sensor, wiring, or the module itself.

Once the car moves, each magnetic grating on each wheel is counted and since all 4 wheels are on the ground, the count from each sensor should be the same. If a wheel sensor is insensitive or its magnetic grating damaged, the count from that wheel will be different and the system will fault. It only needs 1 of 60 magnetic gratings on 1 wheel to be damaged and the system will fault.

After the engine is started and running, if there is no ABS fault lit or detected on a scan, the alternator is charging and the battery condition becomes irrelevant as you drive away, whatever assumptions you seem to be making?