[Oz Dude]

Update on the Narva units.

The high beam units have now been installed and work perfectly. The beam spread and light output is virtually as good (90%) as my Touareg high beams. Definitely need the canbus unit as well which eliminates all faults. We added extended wires on the canbus unit so they could be fed out and back through the rear of the cover.

The low beam units required a pair of rings to adapt to the factory fitting. Ebay is your friend there. The Narva units unscrew to allow the ring to be fitted which is nice. The "screw" is an adjuster ring so you can aim the beams accurately.

We have discovered that the corner of the fan interferes with the outside edge of the light housing so will be pulling the headlights out and modifying on the workbench where everything is clear and easy to see. It's not much, maybe 2-3mm but we want to get it right.

When we did the test fit of the low beams, the light cutoff was very sharp - exactly like Xenons.

Once everything is fitted I'll take a couple of pics but so far the Narva units have really impressed.

Oz

 

[aku-aku]

At long last, the replacement combined DRL/indicator has arrived - see this post for what they are.

One thing I'm considering in order to make the setup a little more road-legal is to figure out if there's an unused contact on the headlamp connector that I could use, so that I could wire them to the xenon shutter contacts (unused on a car with halogen headlamps, of course) and get correct DRL behaviour - the EU rule says that DRLs should go off when headlamps go on; they're currently run off the parking light circuit so that doesn't happen. The xenon shutter feed also has the benefit of not having bulb monitoring, thus making it an ideal candidate for LED lighting

Finally I have this setup properly working! These details apply to a pre-facelift Eos with halogen headlamps and a Central Electrics module with a 3C8 part number and 30 bytes of long coding - others may not have the option to run DRLs over the Xenon shutter or side indicators. There is indeed a spare pin in each headlamp connector, so there is no need to drill holes in the headlamp housings; similarly, no existing factory wires are modified - two new connections are made. You will need to feed the wires through the rubber grommet behind the Central Electrics module into the engine bay.

It requires a wire running from Central Electrica connector D pin 6 to the spare pin on the left headlamp, and from connector A pin 5 to the spare pin on the right headlamp. The Central Electrics connectors are 1.5mm MCP and difficult to come by (I got mine as wire tails on a salvage connector); the headlamp connectors 2.8mm JPT and are the normal used-everywhere kind. Then you need a wire in the headlamp socket from the unused pin to the DRL wire of the combined DRL/indicator bulb.

You will also need to wire a warning canceller in, otherwise the bulb out warning will come on when you first indicate with the DRLs on! One way to do this is to get W5W warning cancellers, modify them to pass the positive connection straight through from the plug to the socket, connect the positive side to the DRL wire, and plug them in in-line with your parking lights.

Having installed them, there is just some long coding to do, to configure the DRLs to be Scandinavian style, and to run over the Xenon shutter connection. By default, they will switch off when low beam is on. If you want them to stay on, or your garage is dark and you want to test the lights without moving the car, you can toggle byte 2 bit 5 (“DRLs as parking lights”) to switch them on together with low beam.

Those with Xenon headlights could use the side indicator connections (left A pin 8; right D pin 9) but you also have to swap the fog and reversing light connections (B1 <-> B4) and code for this.

A handy summary of all your DRL options (in German) which I used to check my other sources is here.