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Discussion Starter #21
At long last, the replacement combined DRL/indicator has arrived - see this post for what they are.

One thing I'm considering in order to make the setup a little more road-legal is to figure out if there's an unused contact on the headlamp connector that I could use, so that I could wire them to the xenon shutter contacts (unused on a car with halogen headlamps, of course) and get correct DRL behaviour - the EU rule says that DRLs should go off when headlamps go on; they're currently run off the parking light circuit so that doesn't happen. The xenon shutter feed also has the benefit of not having bulb monitoring, thus making it an ideal candidate for LED lighting ;)

My quest for reasonably-priced LED replacements for the fog lamps and the full beam goes on - I have been trying and returning several more kinds, all of which claimed they were error free and all of which resulted in bulb out errors - except one set of H7 LEDs, which had no bulb out warning but which were a little too big for the housing, touching the back of the cover when installed. The fog lamps will be harder to solve as they should be fanless - it's not so bad having a fan inside the lamp housing, but in the dirt of the engine bay I suspect it would be prone to early failure.

This is the LED that had no bulb out warning, but which sits too close to the back of the main beam housing. The beam pattern on this is much more focused than the halogen - it has a very bright spot in the middle of the beam and virtually nothing else. The standard halogen bulb spreads the light much further. I'm now trying some other LEDs from the same manufacturer that should be a full centimetre shorter behind the fitting, and hence should fit without any issue - but finding LEDs that have a suitable beam pattern when installed in reflector lamps, fit in the housing and don't cause errors seems to be something of a tall order.
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Turning off the cold bulb monitoring with diagnostics solves half the problems of bulb failure warning (key on check). Simulating the load with a fixed resistor can work, when the lamp is running but it's not a neat solution. If the hot and cold bulb monitoring are similar they are sampling the lamp running current every 300-400 milliseconds. I've got some ideas but no practical solution yet to syncing a load, concurrent with the sample time, but I haven't given up.
 

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Do you have any photos of the LED bulb and its fitment issue in the projector housing. I haven't had any fitment issue in the high beam housing with the LED bulbs, only the projector housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I don't have a picture of the Infitary bulb. It was in the high beam that it didn't fit.

Pictures of my Narva LEDs in the projectors are here - the third picture along is the LED in the projector housing; to help you orient the picture correctly, the orange connector is the indicator.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
For those of you who want combined indicator/DRLs that are actually DRLs, here's what I found out about how to run the DRLs over the xenon shutter connection without making any holes in your headlamps or modifying any existing wiring. (DRLs are only DRLs if they are only on at daytime, not at night, and not when low beam headlamps are on - at least in the European Union. And when it's raining, you must have low beam on and not DRL.) This information may also be useful to those who want to retrofit DRLs outside the headlamps but want them to behave correctly.

Note that DRL over xenon shutter is only available on certain versions of the central electrics control module (CECM) and early versions of the Eos will likely need an upgrade. This information only applies to early versions of the Eos with mk5 electrics with halogen headlamps. If you have the later electrics with a single body control module (BCM) you will probably have more and better options for installing DRLs.

Having investigated, pin 4 on the halogen headlamps is currently unused. It should be possible to wire a connector to pin 4 on each headlamp from the xenon shutter contacts on the CECM. The left side is pin 6 on connector D (confusingly labelled T11c on wiring diagrams) and the right side is pin 5 on connector A (confusingly labelled T11b on wiring diagrams). The pins on the CECM are 1.5mm Micro Timer contacts a 1.5mm version of MCP contacts and the pins on the headlamps are 2.5mm JPT contacts. For the headlamps you will need both male and female connectors; for the CECM plug female connectors only.

It is possible to get to the headlamp socket without removing the headlamp - the socket can be pulled out, and is held in place by tabs on the top and bottom. I inadvertently removed mine by levering the plug when trying to remove it - it may be easier to push through from the inside of the headlamp. The headlamp socket has a purple secondary lock for the connectors which needs to be slid across in order to add the pin. The plug also has a secondary lock on it, and it has a rubber bung where the wire for vacant pin 4 should be inserted. This can be pushed out from the pin side with a fine screwdriver.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I now have an LED solution for the high beam housing. These cost under US$10 for the pair, and they fit nicely in the high beam housing without touching the plastic edge and don't throw any bulb out warnings. I tested them on a hot day, and they got quite hot quite quickly and the fans were audible from inside the car. Since this is for high beam, though, I think these will be OK: you only need high beam at night, and I don't do the kind of driving where high beam is required for extended periods. We'll see how long they last, but given they won't be used that much I think they should be good for my use.

The light source is bigger than the same-size-as-the-halogen LEDs that the expensive Narva LEDs I have in the low beam have, and that probably leads to the beam pattern being different (larger) than the halogen bulbs. I believe the same manufacturer has a slightly more expensive version with the smaller light source that should be good for low or high beam and have a beam pattern close to the original. Overall they're a very cheap upgrade and I'm looking forward to trying them out in earnest. Just the fogs to go (and fixing the DRLs so they work properly) before the upgrade is complete.

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